Near the Cell
there is a well
Near the well there is a tree
And under the tree the treasure be.
So runs the rhyme, popular around Markyate since 1660. The
treasure being the ill-gotten gains of 'The Wicked Lady', a
notorious highway robber who preyed on lonely travellers crossing
Nomansland Common. No treasure has ever been found.
It's the middle of the 17th century, King Charles I has lost his
head and the country is in the iron grip of Oliver Cromwell. The
families loyal to the crown have, at best, had their land
sequestered; at worst they're on the run. Times are hard for the
Royalists.
It's a dark, moonless night. A wagon, loaded with supplies for
an Inn in Gustard Wood, trundles slowly across Nomansland Common. A
masked rider appears on the track ahead and a single shot rings
out. The waggoner slumps forward on the seat, dead and the
Highwayman approaches the wagon. Suddenly, another shot cracks
across the night and this time it's the Highwayman who slumps in
the saddle. The waggoner had picked up another traveller a few
miles back and this traveller was armed.
The rider's black stallion knows well the way home and carries its
master away at full gallop. A short while later the rider collapses
on the steps of her, yes... her, home. Lady Katherine Ferrers dies
in the arms of her faithful servant on the front steps of Markyate
Cell. He spirits her body away and buries her in the churchyard at
Ware. The Wicked Lady's reign of terror has ended.
A beautiful, rich, young and aristocratic
Lady by day; Katherine Ferrers was secretly a notorious Highwayman
at night. Bored with her much older husband, she embarks on a
clandestine affair with a Markyate farmer, one Ralph Chaplin and
together they seek excitement and adventure as Highwaymen.
(Don't be confused by the two films entitled 'The Wicked Lady'.
They were based on a novel by Magdalen King-Hall. The heroine is
Lady Barbara Skelton and the hero, one Captain Jerry Jackson. The
1945 version starred Margaret Lockwood and the later 1983 version,
Faye Dunaway.)
Justice is swift and final in these times and Ralph, caught 'red
handed', meets his maker at the end of a rope on Finchley Common. A
grieving and vengeful Katherine starts a reign of terror that
includes robbery, murder and arson until she too, meets her own
sticky end that night just outside the hamlet of Wheathampstead.
Her ghost is said to haunt the Common around 'The Wicked Lady', a
lonely pub on the road to St Albans. She has also been seen riding
at full gallop along the A5 close to her home at Markyate
Cell.
Well... that's the story, anyway. As with most folk stories,
however, the facts don't quite match up with the fiction.
Location 1 - N51° 46.172' W000° 05.327' -
Bayfordbury Hall.
The Bayfordbury Hall that stands today and is the Astronomical
Observatory of the University of Hertfordshire is not the building
that Katherine was born into. It was built in 1759 for Sir William
Baker, a wealthy merchant of the time. As no other Bayfordbury Hall
exists, one can only assume that sometime prior to it's building,
Katherine's home had been demolished. There is no public access to
Bayfordbury Park so I've hidden a cache along the Hertfordshire Way
which runs along it's eastern boundary. Here you are searching for
a small, clear 'Tab-Lock' container about 2.1/2 inches square. It
contains two of the digits you need to complete the co-ordinates of
the final cache. There is parking available, north of the cache at
N51° 46.813' W000° 05.110'.
The story really starts with Katherine's grandfather, Sir George
Ferrers. The Ferrers family, great favourites of King Henry VIII
and his son Edward VI, had been granted extensive lands, including
estates at Bayfordbury, Ponsbourne, Flamstead, Agnells and Markyate
Cell. Sir George's only surviving son, Knighton, marries Catherine
Walter, a rich heiress from Hertingfordbury and they set up home at
Bayfordbury. On the 4th May 1634 their daughter, Katherine, is born
and Bayfordbury Hall is where she spends her early childhood. In
1640 her father dies and just a month later, her grandfather, Sir
George, also passes away. At just 6 years old, Katherine is
declared the sole heir to the Ferrers family fortune.
Rich young widows didn't stay unmarried for long and later that
year her mother, Catherine, re-marries. This time to local
landowner Simon Fanshawe. The Fanshawes, also Royalists, have
extensive estates in Derbyshire and since 1570 had also owned Ware
Park in Hertfordshire. Two years later, Catherine dies and in an
effort to protect her fortune from the Fanshawes, the orphaned
Katherine is made a 'Ward of Court' and sent to live with a
relation, Lady Bedell (Bethell?), in Huntingdonshire.
Location 2 - N51° 50.432' W000° 27.859' -
Markyate Cell.
Situated in the beautiful Ver
Valley, Markyate Cell is so called because it stands on the site of
a 13th century Augustinian (or possibly Benedictine) Priory. It was
granted to the Ferrers family in 1536 when Henry VIII declared
himself 'Head of the Church in England' and 're-distributed' a
great deal of church property. The mansion they built in 1539-40
was badly damaged by fire in the 19th century but the current
neo-Jacobean house still incorporates parts of the earlier
building. At this location, you are about as close as you can get
to the 'Big House' as there are no public 'Rights of Way' across
the estate. You should find yourself standing in front of a
foundation stone that has a date engraved on it.
The date is WXYZ
C = Y-Z
E = X-W
F = Y-X
It's April 1648, the Fanshawe fortune has been whittled away in
support of Charles II, currently exiled in France. In an effort to
get their hands on the Ferrers estates, Katherine is married,
against her will, to her stepfather's nephew, Thomas Fanshawe
(later to become 2nd Viscount Dromore). She is a month short
of her 14th birthday and Thomas is just 16 years old. The young
couple set up home at Markyate Cell and live there for the next 7
years. (At this juncture, I should mention that an extensive
search of local records failed to turn up any information about
Katherine's alleged lover and accomplice, Ralph Chaplin. In fact,
there is no evidence what-so-ever that a family named Chaplin ever
existed in the area at that time.)
Location 3 - N51° 48.981' W000° 03.374' -
Ware Park.
Here you are searching for a small, clear 'Tab-Lock' container
about 2.1/2 inches square. It contains two of the digits you need
to complete the co-ordinates of the final cache. It's hidden just a
couple of metres off a non-too-clearly defined footpath across the
Ware Park Estate. There is limited off-road parking at N51°
48.527' W000° 04.110'. The footpath starts a short distance up
the hill at the entrance to the Estate. If you want a look at the
Hall, take a short detour halfway along the path to N51° 48.662'
W000° 03.912'. If you 'loose' the footpath around here, it can
be picked up again by the old iron 'kissing gate' at N51°
48.677' W000° 03.774'. In the early part of the year, one of
the fields you must go through may be home to cows and their new
calves. Please note.... Cows with calves can be aggressive.
Soon after the marriage was finalised, property vested in the
Ferrers family was slowly turned into cash. Ponsbourne was sold in
1653 and in 1655, Katherine and Thomas moved to the Fanshawe family
home at Ware Park. In 1657 Markyate Cell was sold to Thomas Coppin
Esq of Kent. (This being the case, Katherine could not have been
living there at the time she was supposed to have been rampaging
around the surrounding countryside.) In 1658, Thomas was
implicated in Sir George Booth's Presbyterian uprising and
imprisoned. He was released in February 1660. In May of that year
Charles II rode triumphantly into London for the Restoration of the
Monarchy and in June, Katherine died at the age of just 26.
According to the memoirs of Ann Fanshawe (the mother of
Katherine's stepfather), she was not interred in the Fanshawe
family vault in Derbyshire but was instead buried at St Mary's
Church, Ware on 13th June 1660.
Location 4 - N51° 48.713' W000° 02.002' - St
Mary's Church, Ware.
Curiously, there is no mention in any of
the church's written records of Katherine being buried here, nor
does she have a gravestone in the churchyard. In fact, there is no
mention of a Katherine Ferrers (or Fanshawe) at all. There are
numerous monuments to various other members of the Fanshawe Family
but not a thing about Katherine. There is evidence that a church
has been on this site since 1078 (probably much earlier) but the
current building dates from 1380. It's been added to and renovated
at various times, most significantly (and drastically) in 1849 when
a great many monuments were cleared away. Could this be when
Katherine's grave marker was 'lost'? Parking is a bit difficult
here. I was fortunate enough to find a space outside 'The Albion',
a cosy little pub that serves an excellent pint.
At this location you will find a
stone tablet upon which has been engraved a 14 word
request.
B = the
number of times the letter 'R' occurs in the text.
D = the number of times the letter 'A'
occurs in the text.
K = the number of times the letter 'D'
occurs in the text.
There is more than a little mystery and possibly scandal
surrounding Katherine's death. Anne Fanshawe's memoirs, written
after Katherine's death, refer to her as "a very great fortune
and most excellent woman". A family history, written by Herbert
Fanshawe many years later, states that "she died at her lodging
in The Strand after being attended by Lady Fanshawe, possibly in
childbirth." Weight is added to that by the fact that a
"Marie Fanshawe, Daughter of Thomas Fanshawe" was buried at
Ayott St Lawrence (not far from Ware) in November of the same year.
For a child to survive for 5 months in those days, the pregnancy
must have been very close to full term but husband Thomas had been
in prison until 4 months before Katherine's death. So, if Katherine
did die in childbirth, who was the father? ..... A highwayman,
perhaps?
The cache is hidden at
N51° AB.CDE' W000° FG.HJK'
There is ample parking, within reasonable walking distance, in
the aptly named "Ferrers Lane". If you feel a shiver run down your
spine and the hairs on the back of your neck stand up as you open
my treasure chest... DON'T TURN AROUND. You might just find
yourself looking down the ghostly barrel of The Wicked Lady's
flintlock pistol !!!!!
And still of a winter's night, they say, when the wind is in
the trees,
When the moon is a ghostly galleon, tossed upon cloudy seas,
When the road is a ribbon of moonlight over the purple moor,
A highwayman comes riding - riding - riding,
A highwayman comes riding, up to the old Inn door.
From 'The Highwayman' by Alfred Noyes
My thanks to John Barber for taking the time to answer my
e-mails and to the ladies of St Mary's church for their endless
patience.
Please do not leave sharp, pointy things or items of food or
drink in this cache.