CUTOUTS
Portuguese Coast west
of Lisbon: N38º 41.721 W9º 27.535
Introduction: More
than half the world’s population lives in coastal regions,
and many people visit the coast frequently. Most come for seaside
recreation, but some also wonder about the origins of coastal
scenery. A walk along the shore or a coastal footpath prompts
questions about how such features as cliffs, rocky outcrops,
beaches and dunes formed, and how and why they are changing. A
coastal journey is likely to encounter estuaries, lagoons and river
deltas that have evolved over longer periods, and it soon becomes
clear that sea level has not always been where it is now.
Coastal geomorphology deals with the shaping of coastal
features (landforms), the processes at work on them and the changes
taking place. Coastal geology is concerned with the rock formations
and structures seen in cliff and shore outcrops, and the sediments
that have been deposited in coastal regions. It provides the
background for coastal geomorphology.
Apart from incidental comments by classical Greek and Roman
observers and by Leonardo da
Vinci, the first systematic attempts to explain coastal
landforms were by 19th century scientists such as Charles Lyell and Charles Darwin, and the pioneer
American geomorphologist William
Morris Davis.While
a great deal of work was done in the 20th century on various parts
of the world’s coastline, particularly in Europe and North
America, it is only in the past few decades that coastal research
has become widespread, and there is still plenty of opportunity for
original contributions (Bird, 2008).
Beach anatomy: The
coast consists of a number of zones. The shore is the zone between
the water’s edge at low tide and the upper limit of effective
wave action, usually extending to the cliff base. It includes the
foreshore, exposed at low tide and submerged at high tide, and the
backshore, extending
landward from the normal high tide limit, but inundated by
exceptionally high tides or by large waves during storms. The
shoreline is strictly the water’s edge, migrating to and
fro as the tide rises and falls. The nearshore zone, comprising the surf
zone (with breaking waves) and the swash zone (covered as each wave
runs up the foreshore), also migrates to and fro as the tides rise
and fall. The breaker zone (where waves are disrupted) is bordered
seaward by the offshore zone, extending to an arbitrary limit in
deep water. The terms offshore, onshore and longshore are also used to describe
directions of flow of wind, water or sediment. A beach is an
accumulation of loose sediment, such
as sand, gravel or boulders, sometimes
confined to the backshore but often extending across the foreshore
as well. Some beaches extend down to, and below, low tide level.
Shingle is beach gravel, especially where the stones are well
rounded. The coast is a zone of varying width, including the shore
and the nearshore zone, out at least to the line where waves break,
and extending inland to the limit of penetration of marine
influences: the crest of a cliff, the head of a tidal estuary, or
the rising ground behind coastal lowlands, or dunes, lagoons and
swamps. The coast is thus the zone where land, sea and air
(the lithosphere, hydrosphere and atmosphere) meet and
interact. It is subject to an array of processes, including
tectonic movements (upward, downward or laterally) of the land
margin, changes in sea level, the effects of tides, waves and
currents in the sea and variations in temperature, pressure
and wind action in the atmosphere. Some coasts have been shaped
primarily by erosion, others by deposition. Erosion is the removal
of rock material, and the term denudation is used where surface
rock is removed to expose underlying rock formations and structures
to further erosion. The term
coastline indicates the land margin at normal high spring tide
(behind the backshore zone), and may be the base of a cliff or the
seaward margin of dunes or dry land.

Coastline
morphology: Maps, charts and satellite imagery show that
few of the world’s
coastlines are straight: even those of simple outline are typically
gently curved. Applying this "rule of thumb", then it stands
to reason that a coastline that detracts from these defined shapes
is obviously controlled by other processes be they a single process
or a symbiosis of two or more processes.
The appearance of a straight or linear coastline invariably means
the interaction of geological faults. An example of a linear
coastline is the north coast of
Madura in Indonesia, which may be
related to a major fault line.
The almost straight 800 km east
coast of Madagascar could also be fault guided, but it includes
depositional sandy barriers shaped by Indian Ocean swell, and has
not been produced directly by faulting. Probably the best example
of a fault coast is seen in California north of San Francisco,
where the coastline runs along the
San Andreas Fault NW to the
Bolinas Lagoon, and then follows the fault along
the inner (eastern) shore of the Point Reyes peninsula bordering
Tomales Bay.
Dynamics:
Coastlines are highly dynamic places. They are constantly changing
as a result of processes at work in coastal waters
which include winds, waves, tides and currents and together
provide the energy that shapes and modifies a coastline by
eroding, transporting and depositing sediment. Geological processes
such as
transgression and
regression are slower and less noticeable on a
day-to-day basis but very important in creating emerged and
submerged coastlines.
The
EarthCache: Three-quarters of the world’s coastline is
cliffed and rocky.This EC takes you to a rocky shoreline that has
been shaped by both geological forces as well as marine
processes.
Do not attempt to
do this cache on stormy days: deaths have resulted from people
being caught unawares by rogue waves and washed out to sea
or bashed against the rocky shore. The strategically
placed faults at this location have created a channel in the
limestones. At this location estimate
1 - the width of the "channel" at
the widest point and
2
- the orientation of the enclosing faults.
Geological
setting: The Cretaceous limestone sequences west of Lisbon
in the Quinta Da Marinha - Guincho areas are covered with younger
sediments (both marine and aeolian). However, where the outcrops
are found, they invariably show the effects of the emplacement of
the nearby
Sintra batholith. Radial faults from this
batholith are common and have helped shape small portions of the
coastline forming several "cutouts" in the original
curvilinear coast. Go and see one such cutout before it
disappears.
Sources:
Bird, E, 2008. Coastal Geomorphology: An introduction. John Wiley
and Sons, Ltd.
Holmes, A, 1993. Principles of Physical Geology. Nelson Thornes
Ltd, 791p.
RECORTES
Costa do
Guincho: N38º 41.721 W9º 27.535
Introdução:
Mais de metade da
população mundial vive em zonas costeiras e muitas
pessoas visitam a costa regularmente. Muitas vêm à
costa por razões recreativas. No entanto a morfologia da
oral costeira é uma das coisas que pode suscitar muitas
perguntas: Porquê as arribas? Porquê os afloramentos?
Porquês as praias? Porquê as dunas? Como é estes
aspectos costeiros se formam e como é que mudam de forma?
Morfologia da oral costeira:
A consulta de mapas e imagens
de satélite mostram claramente que a nossa costa é
tudo menos uma recta e é quase sempre uma linha curva. Sendo
assim, qualquer orla costeira mais rectilínea indica a
acção de factores geológicos ou processos
marinhos ou a combinação dos dois. Uma orla costeira
em recta é provavelmente indicadora da
localização de uma falha
geológica.
A EarthCache:Três quartos da linha costeira do
mundo são constituídos por penedos rochosos e
arribas. Esta EC leva-te a um local da linha costeira rochosa onde
são visíveis as acções marinhas e
processos geológicos. As falhas paralelas nesta localidade
criaram um canal. Para
poderem logar a cache têm de me dizer qual a largura do canal
no ponto mais largo e qual a orientação das falhas.
Nota:Não tentem fazer esta cache em dias
de temporal. Muita gente já foi arrastada por ondas nestas
localidades.
Enquadramento geológico: Os calcários do Cretácico na
zona do Guincho-Quinta da Marinha estão cobertos com
sedimentos mais recentes de origem eólica e marinha. Os
afloramentos de calcário retratam os efeitos da
implantação do maciço de Sintra que gerou uma
série de falhas radiais à sua volta. Os retalhos em
torno destas falhas ditam a morfologia da orla costeira nesta
zona.

The most exciting way to learn about the Earth and its processes is
to get into the outdoors and experience it first-hand. Visiting an
Earthcache is a great outdoor activity the whole family can enjoy.
An Earthcache is a special place that people can visit to learn
about a unique geoscience feature or aspect of our Earth.
Earthcaches include a set of educational notes and the details
about where to find the location (latitude and longitude). Visitors
to Earthcaches can see how our planet has been shaped by geological
processes, how we manage the resources and how scientists gather
evidence to learn about the Earth. To find out more click HERE.