**NOT AT
POSTED COORDINATES**
The
coordinates will take you to a mechanic if you do not follow these
instructions!
If you know you are going to be driving
in whiteout conditions, you should bring:
-
Warm clothing (including ski caps, gloves, and rubber
boots that fit over shoes) and blankets (or sleeping bags). If you
live in a mild climate and can't find such items where you normally
shop, try a sporting goods store. In larger cities there are
outdoor sports shops that carry all year round clothes to wear in
very cold conditions. If you are planning to drive in climate with
very low temperatures, make sure to keep extra outdoor clothing in
the passenger compartment, not in the trunk. This will keep the
clothes warm at all time, saving you from having to put on cold
clothing when already cold, should you have problems with your
vehicle.
-
Extra non-perishable ready-to-eat food
-
First aid kit
-
Extra prescription medication (if applicable),
especially medication that can mean the difference between life and
death in the short term, such as insulin for diabetes,
inhalers/EpiPen for asthma/anaphylactic shock, and (cortico)steroid
treatments. Also, drugs which may produce uncomfortable and/or
life-threatening withdrawals such as tranquilizers (esp.
benzodiazepines), narcotic pain medication, antidepressants,
anticonvulsants, and certain blood pressure medication should be
with physically dependent individuals at all times.
-
Lighter and strike-anywhere matches
-
Portable radio with AM band and batteries, even if
your vehicle has one.
-
Flashlight (torch) with batteries
-
Ice scraper with a brush.
-
A lightweight snow shovel (or any shovel, if your
can't buy a snow shovel locally)
-
Sun glasses -- on a sunny, winter day, the glare on
the road from snow (or even water) can be quite bad
-
If your vehicle doesn't have a navigation system,
consider adding a USB GPS receiver w/software to your laptop
computer (i.e. Microsoft Streets and Trips, Delorme Street Atlas,
etc.). Flat units attached via suction cup and durable hand-held
units are also available if you don't own a laptop. Many of these
have become much more affordable over the past few years. Be
certain any hand-held unit is suitable for navigation while driving
with spoken turn-by-turn promps. A GPS device intended for just
hiking, boating, and the like is NOT suitable while driving.
Remember: One wrong turn onto a winter-abandoned road can be
fatal.
-
If using a laptop, you'll also need a 150-watt or
higher power inverter (converts car battery to household power
mains voltage) or a laptop car adapter with the correct DC voltage
and plug. Usually the inverter is much cheaper, and can be used for
other low-wattage appliances (except clocks).
-
Don't forget your cell phone and its in-vehicle
charger. However, service may not be available in rural areas. If
you're planning to upgrade or replace your cell phone, look for a
model that includes GPS (many do). Except for some large-screen
models (like the i-phone), these are not useful for navagation at
all; only for locating someone.
-
Spare vehicle key to carry on your
person
-
Bucket of sand in case your vehicle gets stuck
(especially without all-wheel drive)
-
Tire chains or cables (see below)
-
Last, but not least, spare batteries for
all the above battery-operated equipment. Remember that cold
reduces battery life.
Plan ahead:
-
If using a GPS device, mapping software or websites
to plan your route, always double-check it yourself against a
detailed, printed map or atlas (e.g. Rand McNally, AAA, Michelin,
etc.) Always select "fastest" (never "shortest") route, as this
will help keep it to the main highways. Of course, you shouldn't
drive faster than conditions permit.Warning: Selecting "shortest
route" or otherwise taking short cuts in wintertime could easily
get you stranded, and can be deadly!
-
Avoid anything below a state/provincial route except
for the last few miles/kilometers to your destination, where
necessary. On some minor roads, there might not be another vehicle
for days, weeks, or even months. Software maps are not as good as
paper maps in showing how "minor" a less-used road is. Some aren't
even paved, but look as good on a computer screen or GPS device as
a well-paved, busy thoroughfare.
-
If at all possible, allow for a couple days of
flexibility so you can wait out a winter storm (preferably before
leaving home). This is especially important for those who have
little winter driving experience. Check the forecast before
departing and try to avoid the worst of it. The most popular sites
online are weather.com and wunderground.com.
-
Check highway conditions for all roads you will be
traveling at the state/provincial highway department's website
(search on Google, Yahoo, etc.). In the USA, include the word
"state" (i.e. "Minnesota state") in your search.
-
Always get advice from locals beforehand
about conditions off the main highways. The best route may not be
obvious to you, or even be shown on a paper map. Also, let them
know when you plan to arrive, with updates on any
delays.
Preparing your
vehicle:
-
Check anti-freeze (coolant) levels, and have it
changed every two to four years (depending on type
used).
-
Make sure your headlights work.
-
Make sure brakes and ABS system are in good
condition.
-
Check heater and defroster and make sure they heat
with no smell.
-
Check condition of the tires and their pressure.
Don't forget the spare tire and jack.
-
Check that the tires are proper winter tires, and not
just "all-weather" tires. Altough these satisfty the legal
requirements in some countries, they leave much to be desired
for.
-
A vehicle's battery can't work as well in cold
weather. Have it replaced if it's near or over the pro-rated
warranty period. On an older vehicle, check the belts, and an
alternator test is also a good idea. Fill an older, unsealed
battery with distilled water (but don't overfill).
-
Replace worn wiper blades and top off washer fluid.
Don't use plain water as it will freeze. On the other hand,
antifreeze intended for the radiator may damage your vehicle's
paint. Look for the winter-type washer fluid at auto parts stores
which has a freezing point of about -20F/-30C. Even though it's on
the other side of the windshield, using the defroster also helps
prevent the washer fluid from freezing.
-
Studded snow tires are good for winter driving
conditions, though a few U.S. states prohibit them (except,
perhaps, for out-of-state vehicles just passing through). On the
other hand, in Sweden it's illegal to drive without proper winter
tires in the winter, they don't have to be studded though. The
tread depth must be at least 6/32" or 5 mm (or whatever local law
requires), which is several times deeper than for regular tires
wearing out. If you live in an area where it doesn't normally snow,
it's probably not worth the time and expense.
-
Especially without snow tires, always bring
tire chains or cable chains. Tire chains give better traction, but
are more difficult to install and remove. Know your tire size (e.g.
P195/60R-15) before purchasing. When needed, install on the drive
wheels (i.e. front for front-wheel-drive, rear for
rear-wheel-drive). If unsure about drive wheels, every
rear-wheel-drive vehicle has a black sphere-shaped thing (the
differential) on its rear axle between the tires. Note that
4WD/All-WD vehicles will have one there also. For 4WD/All-WD
usually the front is best, but check owner's manual. Only use
chains in snow or icy conditions, and remove them as soon as
they're no longer needed. Don't even try them on for size on a
hard, bare surface such as concrete. They might spin out and damage
the chains, concrete, and/or wheel well of the vehicle, and
possibly injure someone.
On the road:
-
Driving on snow, and especially ice, requires extra
stopping distance. Use extreme caution when going
downhill.
-
You cannot drive at highway/freeway speeds with
chains on.
-
Keep your fuel tank at least half full at all
times.
-
For vehicles with ABS anti-locking brakes, do not
pump the brake pedal if you start to skid.
-
If you miss your freeway exit, get off at the next
one and turn around. Continuing on to a less-used alternate route
in winter is foolish.
-
If a mountain pass is closed due to the weather,
there's a good reason for it. Don't even think of using local roads
to get around the closure. Saving a day or two is not worth risking
your life.
-
In blizzard/white-out conditions, you may not be able
to see anything through the windshield. Try rolling down the window
and sticking your head outside. Then, find a safe place to get off
the road and stay there until conditions improve.
-
Ice is more likely to form on bridges. Slow down when
going over them, especially on the motorway.
-
When driving downhill, no amount of technical
gadgetry (ABS,4x4,ESP,...) will protect you against skidding. Snow
chains are the only remedy.
-
Remember Minnesota State Law says, that
headlights must be used during weather conditions that include
rain, snow, hail, sleet, or fog and any time you cannot clearly see
the road ahead for a distance of at least 500
feet.
In case of
emergency:
-
Stay in your vehicle. It can provide enough shelter
to save your life. Also, it's much easier for rescuers to
see.
-
Run the engine for only 5-10 minutes each hour, with
the heater on to the max. Make sure drifting snow doesn't block the
exhaust pipe. Check each time before restarting engine (unless
obvious not snowing/no wind), and shovel any snow out from the rear
end as needed.
-
If you must go outside to search for help or food, do
so only in the morning hours after sunrise when it's not snowing or
foggy, and then only for one hour each way. If for some reason,
you've left your vehicle and can't return, make or dig a snow
shelter (i.e. primitive igloo) at once.
-
Assuming no cell phone service, have your phone on
every 15 minutes per hour. Then turn it totally off (usually the
"end" button on newer phones) to help save its battery. But don't
waste the battery trying to dial numbers where there's no service.
Rescuers can use portable receivers and direction finders to pick
up its signal. However, even if they do, it's not possible to
communicate with you over the phone.
The coordinates for the cache are: N 45° 25.112 W
094° 04.146
This cache is on
private property, but please access it from the rest
area.
The FTF goes to
Rainmaker29!