This is undoubtedly the most famous pass in Mpumalanga - and with good reason too. It is 22.2 km long (and even longer depending on where one starts measuring), plus it loses 682 vertical meters of altitude through a complex network of curves as it descends down the Drakensberg escarpment between Lydenburg in the west (25km) and Sabie in the east (20 km). The pass is part of the Mpumalanga Panoramic Route and carries appropriately heavy traffic both tourist and commercial. It is prone to heavy mist and can be dangerous in low visibility conditions. It is named after the famous Long Tom cannon.
At the top of the pass is a large cannon called the Long Tom. This was the name given to the cannon by the British for this huge field gun operated by the Boers, which fired a 38 kg shell over 10 kilometers. It was the bane of the British generals and their brigades. The Boers lugged this metal monster to the most amazing places, constantly surprising their enemy. The gun was used with great effectiveness in this area, and 50 years after the South African War, the pass was named in its honour.
The malaria mosquito killed more humans in the Lowveld than any war or other pestilence ever could. This little insect wiped out entire groups of miners, adventurers and road workers, and every mile cut into the mountains to make the road was a major triumph. The Long Tom Pass was built between Lydenburg and Sabie as an alternative route for the waggoners of the 1800s to get through to the Mozambican port of Lourenco Marques (now Maputo) for trade. It took the wagons 10 days to get from here to the coast. Now, it's a simple matter of hours – border post protocol included – if you go via the Long Tom Pass.
The upper part of the escarpment is frequently shrouded in cloud and mist, which creates very dangerous situations for motorists. If it is unavoidable to drive in mist/fog/cloud, accepted 'best practice' is to reduce your speed to a level that should another vehicle appear stationary in front of you, that you have sufficient space to stop. Put all your lights on (bright) and switch your hazards on as well. If you have front and/or rear fog lamps, put those on too.
The highest point of the pass is at 2150m ASL at a spot known as Visierkerf (Gun Sight Notch) after a long straight stretch of road 15 km east of Lydenburg. You might spot the Whisky Creek waterfall on your left (north). The road starts descending rapidly through a triple S-curve and skirts the bulk of Mauchsberg (2209m). There is a cement road (very steep) that leads off to the top of Mauchsberg if you have spare time, which makes for an excellent spot from which to photograph the enormous view below. These upper sections of the pass fall within the control of three nature reserves. From West to East they are the Gustav Klingbiel, Sterkspruit and Mokubolaan nature reserves.
Looking down to your left you will see the old road, which has been given a number of titles over the years. The official version is "Die Ou Hawepad" (Old Harbour Road) and another local version is "Die Ou Koetspad" (The Old Coach Road). This is the steepest part of the pass where the gradients get into the 1:5 range. After another 3 km of descending the road goes through a series of sharp S-curves known as "Die Duiwel se Preekstoel" (The Devil's Pulpit). The rapid drop in altitude through these bends is called 'The Staircase'
The descent continues through a complex series of sharp curves, many of which turn through a full 180 degrees. The speed limit is 70 kph and is enforced. Around one of these big right hand hairpin bends, there is an old Portuguese mine on the left which dates back to 1658. After the next big S-bend, the road straightens out towards the north-east for a long straight descent through beautiful mountain scenery. Just a few hundred meters past the lodge is the "Ou handelspos" (Old Trading Post).
At the bottom of this long straight stretch of the pass, the road curves towards the right, revealing a stunning vista of serried ravines to your left. These are known as the 'Devils Knuckles' and with a little imagination, it's easy to see how it got this name. When the clouds swirl up between the 'knuckles' it makes for an outstanding photo opportunity. At the sharpest corner of this section, you will see the well marked Long Tom Monument just after a forestry dept lookout tower. Stop here and digest the history of the pioneers who conquered this huge and difficult landscape.
After another gentle S-curve, the road bears south along the top of a mountain ridge for 2,5 km, after which it swings back into the north-east. On this turn there is the historical "Long Tom Bomgat" (Long Tom Bomb Crater). The road is dead straight for the next 2 kms as it descends Koffiehoogte (Coffee Heights). The next section is another quadruple S-bend as the road descends past the farm Olifant. From here it is another 9 km to Sabie. Around the next mountain there is a fork in the road. This where the R37 ends. Keep left to go to Sabie. From this fork the road is called the R532. The name Sabie is Shangaan for 'fear' and is so named after the crocodiles that frequented the river at the town.