Molti i dettagli artistici e architettonici che si possono apprezzare passeggiando tra le mura del borgo medioevale di Venzone. Gli osservatori attenti potranno notare i segni lasciati dalle diverse vicende storiche seguendo un percorso a piedi dall’ingresso sud fino alla porta nord.
Entrando dalla porta di sotto, un arco a tutto sesto risalente al 1835, troviamo sulla destra Casa Marcurele l’edificio più antico del borgo, edificato nel XI sec. in stile romanico con bifore in bassorilievo.
Procedendo verso nord notiamo il trecentesco Palazzo degli Scaligeri e il Palazzo Zinutti, un edificio del ‘700 impreziosito da un elegante ballatoio con parapetto in ferro battuto e portone barocco.
In questo percorso storico è doveroso soffermarsi ad ammirare il Duomo romanico-gotico del ‘300 considerato il simbolo della restaurazione post terremoto. Il Duomo venne consacrato nel 1338 dal Patriarca Bertrando, la sua pianta a croce a T è composta da una navata longitudinale e da un ampio transetto con i tre presbiteri absidati e le due torri.
L’organo all’interno del Duomo di Venzone risale al 1792 ed è opera del maestro organaro G. Callido.
Nel sagrato anteriore del Duomo troviamo la Cappella di San Michele costruita nel 1200 e attuale sede del museo permanente dedicato alle Mummie di Venzone.
La scoperta delle quasi quaranta mummie estratte dalle tombe presenti all’interno e intorno al Duomo risale al 1647, anno in cui venne alla luce la prima mummia conosciuta oggi come il “gobbo”. La mummificazione naturale delle salme qui esposte si deve a particolari condizioni ambientali che si sono verificate in alcune tombe nelle quali si è sviluppata la Hypha bombicina Pers, una muffa che ha la proprietà di disidratare i tessuti inibendone la decomposizione.
Riprendendo il percorso attraverso il centro storico ci si imbatte in Casa Calderari (XIV sec.) dall’accogliente cortile interno e si giunge in Piazza Municipio sulla quale si staglia il Palazzo Comunale. Un palazzo gotico costruito nel 1400 e riedificato nel 1500 le cui facciate esterne sono decorate con gli stemmi delle più antiche nobili famiglie venzonesi e ingentilite dalle bifore in stile gotico-fiorito.
Sulla piazza si affaccia anche Palazzo Radiussi, residenza nobiliare caratterizzata da una trifora in stile gotico-veneziano del quattrocento e un portale seicentesco.
Continuando verso nord, troviamo Palazzo Orgnani Martina, un palazzo nobiliare del XVIII sec. ora sede dei principali musei e delle esposizioni temporanee venzonesi. Sul lato opposto di Via Mistruzzi, possiamo ammirare l’ex Palazzo Radiussi, del XV sec., arricchito da un balcone rinascimentale e una bifora gotico-fiorita.
Arrivati a porta nord imbocchiamo una stradina laterale, che costeggia la cinta muraria e ci permette di raggiungere Palazzo Pozzo, palazzo nobiliare del XVII sec., e poco più avanti l’ex convento degli Agostiniani, edificio del XV sec. con porticato e loggiato del XVII sec. Proseguendo in Via Alberton del Colle arriviamo ai resti della Chiesa di S. Giovanni Battista, eretta nel XIV secolo, le cui macerie testimoniano tutt’ora la violenza del terremoto del 1976, che ne risparmiò soltanto la facciata principale. Il portale della Chiesa reca i caratteri architettonici dello stile gotico a capitelli decorati con figure e motivi floreali.
Attraversando in modo trasversale il centro storico troviamo Porta S. Genesio, torre di difesa trecentesca che si innesta sullo spigolo delle mura interne e che rappresenta l’unica porta completamente ricostruita.
Il borgo di Venzone è circondato un ampio fossato e da un’interessante doppia cerchia di mura del XIII secolo: la prima cinta muraria forma un terrapieno su cui è costruita la seconda, intercalata da torri a sezione rettangolare, mentre sull’angolo sud-occidentale sorge una torre poligonale.
Di particolare interesse anche l’angolo nord-occidentale delle mura, che si inerpica su un dosso dove sorgono le due torri che dominavano la principale via di passaggio e comunicazione dell’epoca.
THE ORIGIN
The origin of the name Venzone comes out for the first time in 923 as Clausas de Abiciones, then turns into Albiciones, Aventinone, Avenzon, Avenzone and finally Venzone. The place name comes from “av-au”- “flusslauf” (river) so from the name of the river Venzonassa.
Venzone has been a mandatory transit point since the Celtic times (500 A.D.) because of its favourable geographic position. The Romans, who came after the Celts, made Venzone one of their statio along the via Julia Augusta road. This led to the North-Eastern European markets in Norico (the centre of Austria nowadays) from Aquileia and the Adriatic Sea. A number of different archaeological discoveries came to the light due to the evacuations carried out during the restoration of the cathedral – Duomo -; these have proved also the existence of a Roman building in this area. We suppose it to be the castrum, placed side by side.
Throughout the following centuries, the area was successfully invaded by : the Guards, the Marcomanni, the Visigoths, the Huns, the Ostrogoths, the Byzantines, the Lombards and the Carolingians. The first urban township dates back to the latter period (776 – 952 A.D.) when Venzone was first mentioned in the “Clause de Abintione” in 923.
In 1077, Venzone became part of the Patriarchy of Aquileia, with so an important role controlling the passage of commercial traffic that the Patriarch of Aquileia gave the fiefdom of Venzone to the Mels family in 1200, which increased its prestige and allowed it to be recognised as a legal municipality in 1247. This also gave rise to a wealthy market in 1252. Six years later, Glizoio Di Mels had the town fortified with a double wall and a deep moat. The defensive system in Venzone, in ancient times, was including at least five castles, all strategically located to dominate the valley for the better. Two of them were built on the west bank, on the slopes of Mount S. Simeone: the first, Monfort, was rising North to the small village Pioverno, while the second, Plovergno, was standing South not so far from the stream Riûl dai Fraris. Both of them were probably built during the Ottonian period (X and XI centuries) and had a short life as they were demolished by the Patriarchs during the XIV century and probably damaged by the tremendous earthquake in 1348, January 25th.
Both these castles were built on a rock, realistically used from time immemorial as guard and sighting stations and later, also by Celts, Romans, Byzantines, Lombards and Carolingians.
The history of Venzone reports about constant conflicts with Patriarchs first and with the close and rival village Gemona, then.
The control of the walled village passed round from a Lord to the other until Venice arrival, at the end of the XIV century. Venice found in Venzone an ally in the fight against the Carraresi. Thanks to the subjection to Venice (1420) under a unique dominance, the Region Friuli knew a pacific period but also showed the beginning of an economy in decline because new routes for commercial traffic were opened; while this was the most important income source. During the war of the Cambrai League (1508-1511), Venzone was hardly defended by Antonio Bidernuccio, a captain of Venzone. The memory of his gesture is celebrated in a popular and lively rhythm.
Napoleon Bonaparte occupied Venzone in 1797 with the French troupes; later, after the Campoformio treaty, Venzone knew a short period under Austrian domination and came into the Kingdom of Italy in 1866.
NOWADAYS
Venzone was declared National Monument in 1965 as unique fortified village of the XIV century in the region; later, described as an extraordinary example of architectural and artistic restore.
In 1976, seismic events brought Venzone to its knees: the wonderful medieval village was damaged very seriously; but the worth and the tenacity of inhabitants of the Friuli overcame the strength of the nature. Rubbles have been shortly removed and a reconstruction project started, with courage, unity, understanding and hope, wanted to cancel the sings left from that terrible earthquake.
Only 8 years later, thanks to the strong will of the inhabitants, Venzone was born again together with its cathedral, the Duomo, the symbol of the earthquake and the new blooming.
The reconstruction of the other buildings and the historical treasures of the village, was a challenge, under all points of view, and marked the history. Venzone was born again “where it was and how it was” and confirms today to be an example of preservation and protection of the cultural heritage and the social and economic network in the Region.
More info about the earthquake is available here
WALKING INSIDE THE WALLS
Walking inside the walls of Venzone, you appreciate numerous artistic and architectural details. Careful visitors will be able to notice the signs left by the different historical events following a walking route from the South Gate to the North one.
Entering from the South Gate, a round arch dating from 1835, you find the Casa Marcurele – Marcuele House – on the right, the oldest building of the village, built in the XI century in Romanic style with its double lancet window.
Further north, you notice Palazzo degli Scaligeri (XIV century) and Palazzo Zinutti, an eighteenth century nobleman’s corner-house palace with its elegant gallery with a wrought-iron parapet and its stone gateway in baroque style.
During this historical route, it is necessary to stop and admire the Cathedral – Duomo -Romanesque – Gothic style from the XIV century – considered the symbol of the restoration after the earthquake in 1976. The Duomo was consecrated in 1338 by Patriarch Bertrando, it was constructed in the shape of a T-cross with a longitudinal nave and a large transept with three apsidal presbyteries and two towers. The organ dating from 1792 you will find indoors, is the work of the organ master, G. A. Callido and has been restored in 1996.
On the churchyard in front of the cathedral, you find a chapel Cappella di San Michele built in the XIII century and now permanent museum dedicated to the Mummies of Venzone.
In 1647, the first of almost forty mummies – today known as “the Hunchback” – was found in the tombs inside and around the cathedral. The mummification is a natural process due to special environmental conditions which help the development of a rare parasitic mould called Hypha bombicina Pers: its properties consists in dehydrate the tissues inhibiting the decomposition
Walking towards the main square of the historical centre, you see first a house, Casa Calderari (XIV century)on the right, with its inviting internal courtyard and the Town Hall – Palazzo Comunale– then, built between 1390 and 1410, and built again around 1500; it is a jewel of Venetian flamboyant-Gothic architecture. The exterior of the Palazzo is decorated with the coats-of-arms of some of the oldest noble families of Venzone and enhanced by five double lancet windows in Venetian flamboyant-Gothic style.
In the Town Hall Square, (Piazza Municipio), the elegant facade of Radiussi Palace (Palazzo Radiussi) can be admired. This building, from the first half of the fifteenth century, has a triple lancet window in Venetian flamboyant-Gothic style and a stone gateway from the XVII century.
Walking northwards, you find Palazzo Orgnani Martina, an eighteenth century nobleman’s palace, the best preserved in Venzone. Entering through the stone gateway, you will admire the internal courtyard, restructured in the 1700s with a stone gallery and an elegant wrought-iron parapet. Today the Palazzo, site of principal museums, hosts many interesting exhibitions and the town library, located on the ground floor. On the opposite side of the street Via Mistruzzi, you face ex Palazzo Radiussi – ex Radiussi Palace – from the XV century, decorated with a Renaissance balcony and a flamboyant gothic style double lancet window.
Once arrived to the North of the village, you take a small street along the city walls to allow you to reach Palazzo Pozzo, another nobleman palace from the XVII century and further on the ancient convent of Saint Augustine (XV century) with its porch and lodge of the XVII century. Continuing on your way through Via Alberton del Colle, you arrive to the remains of St. John the Baptist’s Church – Chiesa di S. Giovanni Battista, built in the XIV century; they represent still today the violence of the earth-quake in 1976; only the front façade was saved. The front door of the church bears Gothic style architectural features: capitals decorated with figures and floral designs. A few steps and you are back in the Town Hall Square.
At the other extreme of the square, you can see Saint Genesio Gateway (Porta di S. Genesio). This is the only gateway with defensive tower from the 1309 surrounding internal wall remained intact throughout the centuries and now completely restored after the earthquake.
A deep moat and an interesting double wall from the XIII century surround Venzone: the first city wall builds up an embankment where the second one has been raised, with towers with rectangular section inserted; but in the southwest corner, there is a polygonal tower. The northwest corner of the wall is also interesting: two towers raise on a ridge and dominate the most important mean of communication.
LA CACHE / THE CACHE
Per la cache parcheggiate al waypoint indicato ed entrate all'interno del centro storico attraverso la porta indicata alle coordinate base della cache. Da qui seguendo i vari stage potrete visitare questo bel borgo ed annotatevi i dettagli richiesti per raggiungere il final.
For find the cache park at waypoint indicated and enter inside the historical wall between the door at the base coordinate of the cache. From here follow the various stage to visit this beautiful town and note the detail requested to reach the final.
- Ex chiesa di S. Giovanni: qui vi trovate dove si trovano i resti della chiesa di s. Giovanni che si trovava all'interno del convento agostiniano che è andato distrutto dal terremoto del '76, ora cercate qui vicino la lapide relativa ai caduti della guerra / Here you are on the remain of the S. Giovanni church that was inside the Agostinian convent destruct on the 1976 earthquake; now you've find a stone plate about the war dead ("PER IL CVLTO DEGLI EROI...")
- A = la terza cifra dell'anno in numeri romani / the third cipher of the year in roman number (19AX)
- Piazza Municipio: questa è la piazza principale del paese, alle coordinate troverete la mappa della città / this is the main square of the town, at the coordinate you'll find the city map
- Porta Nord: qui prima del terremoto sorgeva la porta Nord, ora le uniche cose rimaste sono le 2 incisioni sulla pietra, quella di destra (schiena al paese) contiene l'antico stemma di Venzone / here before the earthquake there's the North door, now there's only the 2 stone engravings, the right one (if you look north) have the ancient city coat-of-arms.
- C = Numero di merli (le M) presenti nello stemma / number of battlements (the M) of the coat of arms
- Porta Genesio: questa è l'unica porta completamente ricostruita dopo il terremoto, dovrete notare un piccolo dettaglio / this is the only door completely reconstructed after earthquake, now you've to find a little detail
- D = ultima cifra dell'anno della realizzazione della porta / last digit of the year of the door realization (giugno 200D)
- Civico 13: a questo civico noterete diversi numeri scritti sulle pietre, in realtà scritti durante la ricostruzione per poter segnare a quale opera appartenessero le varie pietre (altri esempi li troverete nel duomo) / at this house number you'll find various number written on the stone, this one is used on the reconstruction to sign where the stone come from to rebuild it like "before" (the famous example is inside the church)
- E = c'è la costante presenza di un numero a 4 cifre, prendete l'ultima cifra (13XE) / there's many time the same number with 4 digit, take the last (13XE)
- Duomo di Sant'Andrea: siete al cospetto del Duomo di Venzone, famoso per essere stato ricostruito tale e quale a com'era prima del terremoto. Dovrete cercare informazioni riguardo PASCOLO FRANCESCO / you've in front the Venzone cathedral, famous because it was rebuilt like before the earthquake. You've to find some information about PASCOLO FRANCESCO
- F = la terza cifra del suo anno di morte (18F0) / the third digit of the year of dead (18F0)
Dopo aver raccolto tutte le informazioni è tempo di fare dei rapidi calcoli e recarsi a / After take all the information it's time to do some calculation and go to:
N 46° 19.CBD E 013° 08.AFE
La cache è di dimensioni small e all'interno troverete il logbook, una matita, qualche oggetto da scambiare e un TB per il FTF. Buona passeggiata e buona caccia!
The cache is small and inside you'll find the logbook, a pencil, some item to exchange and a TB for the FTF. Have a nice visit of Venzone and happy caching!