在那裏曾有著上千年的紅檜;在那裏曾有著悠遠的工作站;在那裏曾有著熱鬧的聚落。但是這些都已成為歷史,塵封在書本與照片中。走在這條滿載著歲月的鐵道上,我想著,在遙遠遙遠的以後,我們在世界上能留下些甚麼呢?或許就跟前人一樣,只留下破碎的遺跡與記憶,靜靜地被遺忘吧......


MMS=Mt.Muku Series
木瓜山標高2,427公尺,是花蓮地區最著名的中級山之一。其山區曾經是日治時期三大森林鐵路---哈崙森林鐵路的所在地。從花東縱谷可以沿著索道與鐵路一路抵達隱藏在深山中的哈崙工作站。當地不僅有房舍,更有駐在所或宮廟等多采多姿的建築。只可惜隨著伐木結束,這些遺跡的淹沒在荒煙漫草中,僅僅有登山客偶爾來造訪。
從木瓜山登山口起登後先沿著林道來到第一索道頭。由於地勢十分陡峭的關係,前期的木材運輸都是利用索道快速的運抵地面。這裡除了紅磚製的房舍外,還可以見到許多鋼構的索道頭遺跡與鋼纜。這裡也是MMS系列的第一個藏寶處,如果沒有要登木瓜山的話來這裡看看遺跡好像也是不錯的XD。
經過第一索道頭後即來到明德鞍部,又稱螞蝗鞍部。顧名思義,從此地開始就來到了螞蝗會出沒的地帶了。花蓮的中級山上螞蝗是無法避免的存在,在登山時也只能用長袖來勉強遮掩了。此後在接上鐵路前都是一路陡上,中途有非常多次拉繩,極為考驗登山者的體力與耐力。經過1。20分鐘的辛苦攀爬,終於來到此次鐵道的起點----二號索道頭,又稱萬年木站。
二號索道頭已淹沒在芒草中無法到達,因此唯一的路徑就是沿著鐵道前進。雖然鐵軌已經腐朽,但是行走在鐵路上仍是十分令人難忘的體驗。沿途除了鐵軌之外,還可以見到車廂、轉轍器等不同的遺跡。行走一段時間後,總算見到一棟建築物矗立在道路中央,這就是登木瓜山最重要的宿營地---三號工寮。三號工寮可住5-8人,避雨功能良好,在山上算是非常優良的營地,這裡也是MMS的第二個寶所在。
第二天清晨,在休整過後即迎來了木瓜山攻頂之行。行走一段鐵道後即開始往上攻。這段路走起來非常的舒服,在許多巨木的環繞下走著被落葉覆蓋而十分柔軟的小徑,時間好像停滯了下來,整個世界只剩下這山、這樹與我們存在。放慢腳步登上木瓜山山頂,本來一直困擾我們的小雨也被陽光取代。站在這一等三角點的山頭,雖然毫無展望,但是仍然是十分值得造訪的山頭。Cache放在樹洞裡,如果你去的時候消失了可以逕自補上沒關係。
這個寶大概造訪的人不會太多,跟台灣深山中的許多寶一樣。但是我想這已經不是重點,或許在很久很久以後的未來,會有人再次來到這裡,找到我放下的物品,看到我留下的這些文字,那樣就足夠了。
****此步道有一定的危險性,請事先做好準備,攜帶適當裝備再前來造訪。
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
With an elevation of 2,427 meters, Muku Mountain is one of the most famous mountains in Hualien. The mountain area was once the seat of the Halun Forest Railway. From the East Rift Valley, you can follow the ropeway and railway all the way to the Halun Workstation hidden in the mountains. There are not only houses in the area, but also various buildings such as residences or palaces and temples. It is a pity that with the end of logging, these relics are submerged in grass, and only mountain climbers occasionally visit.
Starting from the Muku Mountain trail, follow the forest road to the first cableway head. Due to the very steep terrain, the timber transportation in the early stage used the ropeway to quickly reach the ground. In addition to the red brick houses, you can also see the remains of many steel ropeway heads and steel cables. This is also the first cache of the MMS series.
After passing the first ropeway head, it came to the Mingde saddle, also known as the saddle of leechs. As the name suggests, from here on, we have come to the area where leechs will appear. The presence of leechs on Hualien's mountains is inevitable, and they can only be barely defended by long sleeves when climbing. After that, it was steep all the way before connecting to the railway. There were many rope pulls in the middle, which greatly tested the climbers' physical strength and endurance. After 10-20 minutes of hard climbing, you will finally came to the starting point of the railway-the No. 2 ropeway head.
The head of the No. 2 ropeway has been submerged in miscanthus and cannot be reached, so the only way is to follow the railway. Although the railroad tracks are decayed, walking on the railroad is still a very unforgettable experience. In addition to the railroad tracks, you can also see different relics such as carriages and switches. After walking for a period of time, you will see a building standing in the middle of the road. This is the most important camping site in Muku Mountain---No. 3 worker's house. The No. 3 worker's house can accommodate 5-8 people, and it has good rain shelter function. It is a very good camp on the mountain,and also where the second cache of MMS located.
In the early morning of the next day, after the rest and recuperation, the trip to the top of Muku Mountain was ushered in. After walking a section of the railway, the attack began. This section of the road is very comfortable to walk. Surrounded by many giant trees, walking a very soft path covered by fallen leaves. Time seems to have stagnated. Only this mountain and this tree exist in the whole world. Slow down and climb to the top of Mt. Muku. The light rain that had always troubled us was replaced by sunlight. The hills standing on this tri-bemchmark, although there is no sight, are still very worth visiting. Cache is placed in a tree hole. If it disappear when you go, you can place a new one.
****This trail is dangerous. Please be prepared in advance and bring appropriate equipment before you visit.