Maltese Cross Trail #1: Beyond the Waboom
The cache, a small camo-taped tablet pot, is hidden under impressive towering orange-red sandstone cliffs on this trail (regarded as a Central Cederberg classic) as it climbs its way up the north side of Klipbokkloof, en route to this stunning geological feature – one of the many must-see locations in Cederberg.
It is a modestly strenuous 7 km there-and-back trail with approx. 400m altitude gain (so there will be some mild puffing and panting!) which will take around 3.5-4 hours depending on stops along the way to admire the views and scenery - and how long you spend gazing in awe at the spectacular rock formations culminating in the Maltese Cross.
Be prepared for the weather which can change quickly – check the forecast and on hot days (which can also occur in winter) set off as early as you can - if possible, obtaining your permit before the day of the hike. Take plenty of fluids to drink and remember your hat and Factor 50+ sun-screen.
On cooler/wetter days, although you will heat up nicely ascending the kloof, remember to take adequate protective clothing as it can be uncomfortably cool at higher levels especially if also windy.
If needed, the Waboom trees and sandstone boulders near the trail can be used for shelter from the elements (sun/wind/rain).
Access to the trail through a combination-locked gate is by Cape Nature permit (free to WildCard holders, R60 otherwise) obtainable at their Dwarsrivier offices @ S 32 30.191 E 19 15.373 or Algeria Forest Station (Cape Nature HQ for the Cederberg Wilderness Reserve) @ S 32 22.487 E 19 3.598 .
Opening hours for Dwarsrivier Office: Mon-Sat: 08:00-12:00 & 14:00-16:30; Sun & Public holidays 09:00-11:30 & 16:00-17:30. Closed Sundays, Easter and Christmas [027 482 2825]
To Reach the Cache Location:
After obtaining your permit at Dwarsrivier, return to the main Algeria – Mount Ceder road and head left approx. 600m to the trail entrance gate @ S 32 29.894 E 19 15.286.
After gaining access, follow the gravel track (not really recommended for non-4WD cars as fairly high clearance is required in some sections) for 20 minutes and nearly 6km to its end at the small parking area and trailhead.
From here, follow the clear trail down, across the log footbridge over the permanent stream (the Dwarsrivier), and up through the low fynbos vegetation past some lovely Protea nitida trees.
Continuing on up the increasingly rocky trail, as you gain height you will get great views looking back east towards the vineyards and buildings at Dwarsrivier, with the burnt-orange rocky landscape ever impressive, with The Pup and Sugar Loaf peaks prominent to the south-east.
Higher up, the path swings left and heads up towards a beautiful rock face above the shallow ravine – and the cache location, approx. 2km (45 mins) from the trailhead.
Protea nitida (Wagon Tree Protea), also known as waboom (Wagon tree), blousuikerbos (Blue sugar-bush) and bobbejaansuikerbos (Baboon sugar-bush) is a large, slow-growing Protea endemic to South Africa. With its long history and fine appearance, it is a fynbos gem.
Carl Linnaeus, the father of taxonomy, named the genus Protea because he believed that it showed great diversity. Proteus, the mythological Greek god, could see into the future and always spoke the truth - but to extract a prophecy, one had to grasp him tightly while he changed into many animate or inanimate forms. The species name nitida, is Latin for ‘shining’ referring to the appearance of its leaves.
It is one of the few Protea species that grows into trees, and the only one with usable timber. It is found from the Cape Peninsula, all the way to the Bokkeveld escarpment and into the Eastern Cape. It grows on mountain slopes of all altitudes and in the right conditions, can form large open woodlands.
Though not currently regarded as threatened, in the past 1,000s were lost to over-exploitation by bark stripping for the tannin and by extensive use of its wood for charcoal. In many places they have also been cleared for timber and often replaced by commercial pine plantations
It varies in height, but generally is a gnarled, slow growing 5m tall tree with white-grey bark and a trunk diameter of up to 400mm. Under good conditions, it can reach 10m tall and 1m diameter. However, throughout their range, a dwarf multi-stemmed form with narrow green leaves also occurs which was once regarded as a distinct species, Protea reticulata.
It has beautiful lightly coloured, wrinkled bark, distinct grey-green leaves and bears creamy-white flowers 
which appear throughout the year.
Young crimson leaves give way to mature, bluish, sea-green leaves. Large, greenish white flower heads appear year-round with a peak from May to August. Many small fruits (usually referred to as seeds) with long straight hairs are released 9-12 months after flowering.
It also has a thick corky bark which protects it from burning enabling it to survive the periodic fires sweeping through the fire-prone fynbos the mountain slopes.
Uses: its various common names relate its historical uses. Baboons may climb up the trees to feed on the copious sweet nectar of the flowers or to use them as lookouts – hence the name bobbejaansuikerbos. Brandhout, the Afrikaans word for firewood, indicates another use.
The name waboom (derived from the SA Dutch Wagenboom or wagon tree) comes from the use of its wood for wagon wheel rims and brake blocks. This name was first recorded in 1720 long predating its scientific name.
Its wood was popular for ornamental furniture manufacture and made excellent charcoal. Its tannin-rich bark was used for tanning leather and to make an infusion for treating diarrhoea.
Its dry or fresh leaves boiled up with a rusty iron nail and a piece of sugar candy made a fine blue-black decoction ideal as for use as an ink or dye.
Nowadays, its main use is as a decorative garden specimen.
See also here and here for more information on this special tree.
See here for an excellent photo blog of the hike to the Maltese Cross.