Queen Victoria
My personal interest in Queen Victoria revolves around Jewelry and her immense influence on jewelry of that era, now known as the Victorian Period.
First a little background on Queen Victoria
Victoria (Alexandrina Victoria; 24 May 1819 – 22 January 1901) was Queen of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland from 1837 until her death in 1901. Collectively known as the Victorian Period, her reign (63 years and seven months) was longer than any other British monarch at that time. It was a time during which there was immense industrial, political, scientific, and military change within the United Kingdom, and was seen as the Great expansion of the British Empire. In 1876, the British Parliament voted to grant Victorian an additional title, that being Empress of India.
She ascended to the throne at the young age of 18 after her father's death as well as that of her three elder brothers. Victoria privately attempted to influence government policy and ministerial appointments to a great extent. In the public eye, she became a national icon who was identified with strict standards of personal morality.
Victoria married her first cousin Prince Albert of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha in 1840. It was common practice at this time for royals and nobles to marry within their families so as to keep the blood line pure. A consequential result of this in-marrying was the spread of haemophilia throughout European royalty.
After Albert's death in 1861, Victoria descended into a deep state of mourning and avoided public appearances. During her self imposed seclusion, the British Parliment gained strength, but during the latter half of her reign, her popularity was aptly recovered. Her Golden and Diamond Jubilees were times of public celebration.
Victoria died in 1901 on the Isle of Wight at which time her son, Edward VII of the House of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha became the King.
Now for the Jewelry Part..... or Jewellery as the Brits spell it.
Queen Victoria was one of the most influential people in the world of jewelry, especially during her reign. She really had a heavy hand (or thumb) in dictating what people could say, do and wear !
The Victorian Period which spanned her very long reign (1837 - 1901) is divided into three sub-eras:
Early Victorian
Middle Victorian
Late Victorian
Early Victorian Period (1837 - 1860) - The Romantic Period
This was known as the Romantic Period where sentimental jewelry was very popular. Gold was scarce so most of the gold jewelry light and delicate and incorporated Filigree styles, replique work and stippling textures. The materials use extensively during the Early Victorian Era included Ivory, Hair, Seed Pearls, Coral, Glass and a number of varieties of Chalcedony (Quartz) such as Carnelian, Bloodstone and Agate to name a few.
Plaited or braided hair jewelry was very popular. It was a craft handed down from mother to daughter over the generations and involved working the hair of a loved one into mostly bracelets, earrings and lockets. This quickly became a Cottage Industry with small companies offering the service. You would bring the hair of a loved one to the company and they would plait or braid it to make jewelry and add gold fittings. As with many other trades, there were some unscrupulous dealers that instead of using the customers real hair, substituted horse tail/mane hair because it was coarser and easier to work. Who would have thunk that switching hair was a thing LOL.
Other popular styles of jewelry during this Romantic Period incorporated Pietra-dura (which originated in Florence), Mosaics (Roman influence) & Micro-Mosaics.
Pietra-dura (translated from Italian as “hard stone”) is used to form mosaic designs and pictures of famous places, scenes, animals, flora, etc. It is basically an inlay process where small pieces of opaque natural gemstones are inlaid into a dark colored backfield (typically onyx). This is an art form that flourished in Florence especially during the late 16th and 17th centuries and involved the fashioning of highly illustrative pictures made of cut-to-shape pieces of coloured stones.
Pietra-dura (translated from Italian as “hard stone”) is used to form mosaic designs and pictures of famous places, scenes, animals, flora, etc. It is basically an inlay process where small pieces of opaque natural gemstones are inlaid into a dark colored backfield (typically onyx). This is an art form that flourished in Florence especially during the late 16th and 17th centuries and involved the fashioning of highly illustrative pictures made of cut-to-shape pieces of coloured stones.
Micro Mosaics are more intricate forms of Mosaic made up of tiny squares and other shapes of Glass (known as Tessera) to create very elaborate and detailed images. This technique was popular during the Early Victorian Era and both Hard Stone Mosaics (Pietra-dura) and Micro-Mosaics continued to be popular during later periods.
Because gold was so scarce at this time, a different metal called Pinchbeck (which was created by Christopher Pinchbeck), was used for jewelry to imitate the appearance of the very rare natural gold. It is made of a zinc and copper alloy and was used up until about 1854.
Queen Victoria spent a good deal of time at her Scottish Estate, Balmoral and she became interested in Scottish styles of jewelry which revolved around Gothic and Celtic Design. Much of these Scottish Themed jewels had hardstone inlays (mostly Chalcedony) within large Celtic Brooches, Bracelets and Kilt Pins, many with detailed engraving throughout the metal. Sterling Silver was frequently used in Celtic Revival Jewelry but gold was also used in more expensive pieces (especially for the Queen).
A couple of other common items were bracelets and necklaces depicting Gloved hands for the clasp. Many pieces during this time also used cut steel instead of gemstones. The furtherance of Acrostic (Harlequin) rings were all part of the idea of Sentiment which was very important to the Queen. She was deeply in love with Albert and wanted Sentimental Jewelry to be the norm. By the way, Acrostic Jewelry is that which uses the initials or the first letter of the contained gemstones to spell words and names.
Middle Victorian Era (1860 - 1885) - The Grand Period
Well things are going fine until Prince Albert dies in 1861. Victorian goes into DEEP mourning for 27 years. She only wore black clothing and black jewelry and demanded that her subjects also wear black.
There were also some significant world events during this time frame that began to influence Art, Textiles, Architecture and Jewelry Design throughout Europe. This Middle Victorian time frame was very Eclectic and borrowed motifs from many cultures and ancient eras.
Several Major Events resulted in this Eclectic influence:
1. The opening of the Suez Canal, promoting travel to Egypt and experiencing the intriguing designs and motifs of the ancient Egyptians and Etruscans. Celtic, Egyptian and Architectural Revival Jewelry were taking the European and English Design world by storm.
2. The discovery of ancient Etruscan treasures and jewels from an archeologic dig prompted a strong revival of Etruscan Style Jewelry
3. Victoria was named Empress of India. As trade between Europe and India increased, Indian designs became incorporated into jewelry at this time and were very popular. These jewels contained numerous gemstones of many colors. Many of the gems were crudely cut as were the diamonds.
4. Trade with Japan opened up inviting a whole new world of design elements, themes and motifs and the use of mixed metals in Shakudo, Shibuichi and Niello jewelry.
This Middle Victorian Era was called the Grand Period. Gold was more abundant due to its discovery in California, Australia and South Africa so jewelry was heavier in weight and concept, allowing for the expanse of these many Revivalist Designs (Celtic, Egyptian, Etruscan, Architectural, India and Japanese. The jewelers borrowed motifs & designs from many of these cultures. Items had simpler patterns but were bold.
Etruscan Revival style pieces had ornate carvings and granulation throughout. In spite of the deep mourning in England, the European jewelers were free to design at will so their pieces were large, flamboyant and colorful.
Scottish Pebble Jewelry (Mosaic/Inlay) became even more common with jewelry designs of shields, crowns, anchors, thistles and arrows while many Painters were creating wonderful Miniature portraits of people, animals and scenes that were set within gold brooches and necklaces.
English families often traveled to Europe for The Grand Tour and while visiting famous landmarks, they purchased mementos and souvenirs of their trip. Cameos from Naples, Pietra Dura (hard stone inlay mosaics) from Florence and micromosaics from Rome (in particular, the Vatican Workshop), were brought home and set by local jewelers. These souvenirs of the Grand Tour often depicted scenes of the famous ruins and monuments (St. Peter's Square, the Coliseum, etc.) as well as mythological themes (Diana, Hebe, Psyche) and historical figures (Plato, Magellan, Caesar).
Meanwhile in Great Britain, they are in the Mourning Period due to the death of Prince Albert. Black Jewelry and Gemstones were the norm. Such materials included Onyx, Jet, Black Coral, Lava, early Plastics, Glass, Enamels, Gutta Percha (vulcanized Indian Rubber) and Bog Oak. Lots of Colored Gemstones were also used but they were of darker colors (Pyrope Garnet, Dark Amethyst, Smokey Quartz, etc.). Jewelers often used Carbuncles (large cabochon cut Garnet) and Rose Cut Garnets (aka Bohemian Garnets) as well as Agates & chalcedony (ie: Scottish designs) for the feature gems.
Late Victorian Era (1885 - 1901) - The Aesthetic Movement
After the Queen emerged from mourning, the textiles, furniture, paintings and jewelry began to develop a more refined look. This was known as the Aesthetic Period. The gold work was narrow and not as heavy. There was a new love of diamonds since their discovery in South Africa). Serpents, dragons and gargoyles were very popular motifs. A more varied use of Rose Cut Diamonds was seen in the jewelry of this time. Brooches, necklaces, earrings, bracelets and rings were encrusted with numerous rose cut diamonds. Other gem materials used were Ivory, Natural Pearls, Turquoise, Opals and Coral. Star and crescent shaped designs were frequently set with tiny seed pearls, turquoise and rose cut diamonds.
Japanese Influence in enamels and inlays became more extensive. We saw the emergence of Niello (metallic black inlay on silver or gold), Shakudo (gold & copper) and Shibuichi (silver & copper) in much of the jewelry at this time, being taken directly from Japanese designs (ie Sword Hilts, Kimono Jewelry and Netsukes).
A good deal of Sterling Silver (from Birmingham) was used for these jewels but we also saw a greater use of Piqué Tortoise Shell which is brown mottled natural tortoise shell inlaid with gold stars, dots and rose motifs). Piqué Tortoise Shell was used to craft Hair Combs, Dresser Sets and brooches.
During this Late Victorian Era, the designs included Hearts, anchors, circles, birds, butterflies, buckles, ribbons, horseshoes, name and message brooches, mizpah brooch and bracelets, large silver lockets and Reverse Painted Intaglio Crystals. Reverse Painted Intaglio Crystal Jewelry is highly prized and collected today !
The types of jewelry created during the extent of the Victorian Period
include Rings, Brooches, Lavalieres, Bracelets, Fringe/strap necklaces, Kilt pins, Seals and Fobs, Chatelaines (very early), Slide bracelets, hair/hat pins and hair combs
Pheeeew. That’s a lot of history for just one Queen’s reign !
I hope you have enjoyed this brief essay on the Victorian Period and Queen Victoria’s influence with International Trade, New Design Concepts, Industrialization, Manufacturing and more. She really had a strong part in the growth of Great Britain as a world leader.
Now for the quiz ! I hope you read carefully and took notes.
Final location is N 42 56.ABC W 071 2D.EFG
A. Victoria is named Empress of India in 1A76
B. Alexandria Victoria was born on May 2B
C. Victoria's Reign began in 183C
D. The Grand Period lasted until 188D
E. Victoria died in 1E01
F. XY = the number of years Victoria mourned the loss of Albert; X+Y = F
G. The number of horses plus the number of dogs in the Reverse Painted Intaglio Brooch.
I have included a baggie with 4 or 5 small mineral crystals in the container for any budding young geologists out there.
The mineral specimens are: Fluorite, Zircon, Idocrase and Chalcedony
FTF can have their choice of one then each subsequent finder can select one of their choice from the remainder and so on until they are all gone.
Enjoy !