There is a great parking area on a rise to experience this earthcache from.
Whether you have driven from the south or the northwest, you have been in much greener, more fertile areas than the one you are looking at here. 90% of Iceland is covered with volcanic soils, and less 1-3% is desert. You're in a unique location where you will see both!
What is desertification?
Desertification is land deterioration in dryland areas where biological productivity (grasses, trees, etc) is lost due to natural processes or human activities. Soil that used to be productive is changed so that it is no longer fertile. Things like climate change, overexploitation, or erosion factors (wind, water) can all create desertification.
Throughout geological history, the development of deserts has occurred naturally. In recent times, the potential influences of human activity, improper land management, deforestation and climate change on desertification is the subject of many scientific investigations.
Arid Conditions:
Aridity (Desert-prone classified areas) were defined by the UNEP. They use a calculation of precipitation divided by evapotranspiration (evaporation or water transport to another location -- think snow, ice, runoff, etc) (ex: 100 mm rain / 100 mm evaporating or flooding away would = "1". Thus these desert conditions are all ones where more moisture is leaving than coming/staying). Desert formation needs things to be "getting dryer" or staying dry! It is super important to realize that rain or snow can be present in an area and it still be turning to desert -- if more is leaving than is staying!
Here are the classifications:
Arid 0.05-0.20
Semi-arid 0.21-0.50
Dry sub-humid 0.51-0.65
Iceland is not an arid, semi-arid or dry sub-humid region. It gets more than .65 Therefore the land degradation it is suffering from cannot be called "desertification" in the strict sense as defined by the UN. On the other hand there is no doubt that land degradation has led to the creation of desert like conditions in many areas of Iceland.
In this area, 800-1199 mm of moisture enter the area you are looking at!
Soil Sources
Most of Iceland's soils are of volcanic origin. They may be grouped as:
1: soils of barren surfaces (sands) -- usually glacially deposited, course in texture, lack organic material, and are infertile. They often also contain loose stones of various sizes.
2: eolian-andic soils or tephra loess on dry ground -- partially transported by wind. This soil can come from volcanic ash "piles" or deep deposits somewhere else, that have blown to the location. Since there is usually a lot of ash, the grain size is really fine. In fact, tephra is the generic term for airborn volcanic materials that are less than 2mm in size. eolian-andic soils are are a specific volcanic ash type that traps huge amounts of phosphorus and also a high-water-holding capacity. As a result, it tends to either blow away if it stays dusty OR turn into a cement if it absorbs significant moisture. Neither is very good for vegetation
3: organic or wetland soils - rivers and streams along with rotting vegetation create this type of soil. This is the type of soil that is most likely to be fertile and support significant vegitation
Research Zone:
Researchers are studying a 20 000 km2 study area located between the 65th and 66th degrees north latitude and the 16th
and 18th west longitude in north eastern Iceland is pretty large. We are on the eastern edge of this area.
Desert Types:
This desert is located in the rainshadow of the Vatnajökull glacier. The mean annual precipitation ranges from 400 mm in the south up to 1000 mm in the north. Elevation ranges from sea level in the north to more than 1000 mm in the south.
There are two types of deserts found in this research area:
1) those made up of loessial eolian-andic soils resting on lava or mixed with sand
2) arctic gravel zones of glacio-fluvial origin and visible lava flow fields
Factors that led to desertification at GZ:
1. The eruption of Vatnajokull volcano under the Catnajokul icecap in 1477. It covered the area in a lot of infertile "soil." Most of this is eolian-andic soil.
2. Frequent explosive flash floods in the glacier river Jokulsa a Fjollum in the 16th and 17th centuries that inundated the area with sand.
3. There was also a prolonged cold spell from 1200-1920.
4. Overgrazing of sensitive spots (by sheep).
History:
The arid and desolate landscape in front of you used to be a farm. The Cloidalur farm laid on the border between Nordur-Mulasysla and Nordur-Pingeyjarsysla districts. This area was originally called "The valley of Willows" and was all vegetated until the 15th century when an eruption under the Catnajokul ice cap in 1477 triggered severe andcumulative loss of vegetation and wind erosion of the soil. By 1794, the farm was virtually all desert and remains so.
In spite of this, in 1924 Porsteinn Sigurdsson and Gudrun Sigurbjornsdottir bought the farm (at 460 meters above sea level, it was the highest farm in Iceland). It was a sheep farm, though never a very big one since the vegetation is sparse. A couple generations later, t was abandoned in 1999.
The Soil Conservation Service bought the farm in 2002 and intends to restore the natural vegetation.
Restoration Techniques:
The Soil Conservation Service has begun protectrive measures.
Systematice efforts include:
- methods to stop wind erosion,
- planting of grass seeds,
- spreading fertilizer,
- placing strategic bolders & geological features,
- and planting trees.
Logging Tasks:
1. Soil examination
1a - Pick up at least 1 tablespoon (15-20 grams) of soil. Based on the description "Soils" what types of soil do you see in your hand?
A) Soils of barren surfaces (sands)
B) Eolian-andic soils or tephra loess (ashy or cement like)
C) Organic soils
1b - examine a square meter (3 x 3 feet) and count the number of stones that are pebble size or larger. Based on the description above, what are their origins?
2. From the viewpoint observe which of the Soil Conservation Service projects are currently visible. List the items you see (from the list above)
3. Based on the descriptions above (Desert Types), which type of desert (all found in Iceland) are you currently observing?
4. Are there evidences of recent floods or wind erosion that have slowed reclamation efforts?
5. Picture of self and others logging with you OR notable item. (allowed since 2019)
Resources:
Intepretative Panels at GZ
Desertification - Wikipedia
Lund University - Desertification in NE Iceland https://lucris.lub.lu.se/ws/portalfiles/portal/5363977/4173786.pdf