While strolling through Krasiński Square, it’s worth paying attention to the inconspicuous, narrow path made of darker cobblestones that runs through the intersection of Długa and Bonifraterska streets. It leads to a manhole — a place of great importance during the Warsaw Uprising.
The sewers played a crucial role at the time — they were the only safe route connecting the cut-off districts of the city. They allowed people to move around without the risk of gunfire, to bypass German checkpoints and destroyed streets. Thanks to the sewers, it was possible to deliver orders, weapons, and ammunition, as well as evacuate the wounded and civilians. Although the conditions inside were extremely harsh, their existence gave the insurgents a chance to survive, maintain communication, and continue the fight.
The manhole you can see here today holds special historical significance. During the defense of the Old Town, on August 30, 1944, assault units descended underground through this very entrance with the intention of breaking through to Bankowy Square. However, when the mission failed and further defense of the Old Town became impossible, a mass evacuation began on September 1 — using the same route, over 5,000 soldiers made their way to Śródmieście (the city center) and Żoliborz.
Those who were unable to enter the sewers — the severely wounded and weakened — stayed behind. The next day, they were massacred by German troops, along with thousands of civilian residents.
The route, though seemingly short, felt endlessly long for the evacuating insurgents — the passage took many hours. Not only because of the darkness and the extremely harsh conditions underground, but above all because the sewers ran beneath streets controlled by the Germans. At any moment, the enemy could be listening, guarding manholes, or dropping grenades inside. Every time a hatch was opened, it risked revealing the presence of people underground, and every step deeper into the sewer was a battle against fear and exhaustion.
One of the most moving accounts of this evacuation is the testimony of Marian Dobrowolski. It's well worth reading — for instance, here.