A four-wheel drive vehicle is required to visit Kubu Island.
Note that access may be difficult or impossible during the wet season (December to March).
Magnificent Baobab trees on Kubu Island
Makgadikgadi Pans
Botswana's great Sua and Ntwetwe Pans collectively comprise the 12,000 sq km. These landscapes are like no other on earth; especially in the sizzling heat of late winter, the stark pans take on a disorienting and ethereal austerity. Heat mirages destroy all sense of space or direction, imaginary lakes shimmer and disappear, ostriches fly, and stones turn to mountains and float in mid-air. These are just tricks that the heat waves cause our eyes to imagine.
In September, herds of Wildebeest, Zebra and other antelope move into the thirsty grasslands west of the pans to await the first rains. Although the water is short-lived, wildlife gravitates towards depressions that retain stores of water after the surface moisture has evaporated.
Around December, the deluge of rain begins. The fringing grasses turn green and the herds arrive to partake of the bounty. Flamingos, pelicans, ducks, geese and other water birds flock to the mouth of the Nata River to build shoreline nests and feed on algae and tiny crustaceans that have lain dormant in the salty earth during the dry months.
Geology
The Makgadikgadi Pans are the residue of a great lake that once covered much of northern Botswana, fed by rivers carrying salts leached from the lake's catchment area. Ancient lakeshore terraces reveal that the water depth fluctuated by as much as 33 metres and, at its greatest extent, the lake covered an area of 60,000 sq km. Because the basin had no outlet, the salts were concentrated in low lying areas. Less than 10,000 years ago, climactic changes caused the lake to evaporate, leaving only salt deposits.
Geology of the Makgadigadi Pans - click here for full size version
For a full map of the Geology of Botswana - click here (6 Mb)
Sua Pan
Sua Pan is mostly a single sheet of salt-encrusted mud stretching across the lowest basin in north-eastern Botswana. Sua means salt in the language of the San, who once mined the pan to sell salt to the Kalanga people. In wet season of normal rainfall, flocks of water-loving birds gather to nest at the delta where the Nata River flows into the northern end of Sua Pan. At these times, its expanses are covered with a film of water only a few centimetres deep, creating an eerie and surreal effect that reflects the sky and obliterates the horizon.
Kubu Island
Near the south-western corner of Sua Pan lies Kubu Island, the original desert island. But for one tenuous finger of grass, the ancient 20-metre high scrap of rock and its ghostly Baobabs lies surrounded by a sea of salt. In cool weather, this bizarre sight can make visitors feel like castaways on an alien planet. In Zulu-based languages, 'Kubu' means Hippopotamus, and as unlikely as it may seem, given the current environment, the site may have been inhabited as recently as 500 to 1500 years ago. On one shore lies an ancient crescent-shaped stone enclosure of unknown origin that has yielded numerous pot shards, stone tools and Ostrich eggshell beads.
Note that Kubu is a national monument, and there are plans to station a warden here to ensure that visitors don't damage anything.
Sua's landmarks
Note that you should never attempt to drive across the pan from the east side to the west, or vice versa – even during the dry season. After about two kilometers the surface is very soft and you will bog down quickly.
South Islands
About 7km south of Kubu, far out on the pan, are two small islands. They too have Baobab trees and the larger one, in the east, has a series of rock cairns along its spine.
Kukome Island (also spelt 'Kukonje' Island)
On the eastern shore of Sua Pan, roughly opposite Kubu, Kukome Island has similar fossil beaches and ancient remains. To reach here, first head for the Kwadiba Veterinary Gate on the east side of Sua Pan, from where a track leads west for about 7km to Kukome Island.
Mmatshumo Village
Mmatshumo is a small village on the south side of the pans, between Sua and Ntwetwe pans – as well as a waypoint for getting to Kubu. Basic supplies can be bought here.
Thabatshukudu Village
Thabatshukudu is another village, notable for the landmark of its colourfully painted general dealer's store – and also a useful waypoint when navigating yourselves around.
Access
Kubu Island can be accessed from the north from the Nata - Gweta A3 trunk road, or from the south from the Francistown - Orapa A30 trunk road. Turning points from these trunk roads are supplied as additional waypoints. A good GPS map of Botswana is strongly recomended.
The Campsite Reception area is located at S20 53.460 E25 49.318. Here (if you are staying over) you need to pay your (reasonable) camping fees.
Should you not be overnighting at the island, expect to take a minimum of 6 - 8 hours for the round trip from the A3 or A30.
The Earthcache
In order to claim a find on this Earthcache, please complete the following tasks and email the answers to me via the GC.com website. You need not wait for my confirmation to post your find log - I will contact you if there is a problem with your answers.
- Search around the shores of the island for a round(ish) water washed pebble - these can be at several places, showing how the lake gradually receded. Look for water erosion marks on the pebble and describe in your answer why you think these are water eroded pebbles, and detail the approximate height above the pan surface that you found the pebble. Please also indicate whether your found pebble is the same or different to the rocks on the island. Optional: Photograph the pebble alongside your GPS and attach the photo to your "Found it" log.
- Dig a small hole with a stick close to the shore and note the depth at which the clay becomes noticably damp (the colour will be a very dark grey and it will not crumble). Then walk about 100 yards / meters east onto the pan surface and do the same. Note the depth at which the clay is noticably damp here. Optional: Walk to a point about 200 meters / yards from the island and repeat the experiment. Report the answers in your email to me with the conclusions from your observations.
- Take a photo of your caching team with GPS visible at one of the Baobab trees and attach to your "Found it" log. (optional)
Logs will be deleted if your emails are not received within 3 days.