M19A1 Ammo Box Traditional Geocache

This cache is temporarily unavailable.

Tigerrag24: Unfortunately the weather, and now apparently vandals, have taken their toll on the container. As a result I have to disable this cache. I hope to go pick it up later this week and bring it home for repairs. It may take a couple of months to make repairs due to other obligations and travel plans over the next several weeks. However, I do plan to make improvements/repairs to the cache and replace the cache in the near future.
PLEASE DO NOT TRY TO OPEN THE LID OF THIS CACHE UNTIL IT IS REACTIVATED!!!!!

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Hidden : 3/8/2013
Difficulty:
2 out of 5
Terrain:
1.5 out of 5

Size: Size: large (large)

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Geocache Description:

To celebrate 5 years of Geocaching I thought I would place a special cache. This is a unique ammo box hidden in plain sight. The business owner has graciously allowed me to place this cache on his property. Please be respective of his property, business, and patrons. The cache is on the left side of the entrance drive just outside the gate. The preferred parking place is on the opposite side of the drive just outside the entrance gate. Please do not block the drive.

AMMO CAN OR AMMO BOX?
 
Although often called "ammo cans", military nomenclature refers to "Box, Metal, M19A1" not a ".30 Cal. ammo can." An ammunition can, to the military, is usually a  factory-sealed, air tight, metal container that is opened at the point of use, then disposed of like a coffee can. The ammunition box, in contrast, has a hinged, removable lid with a rubber gasket and can be resealed. Used boxes can be recovered, where practical, and reused.

Ammunition packaging has the primary purpose of delivering the ammunition in shooting condition when and where needed. Since the route from the manufacturing plant/arsenal to the front line can be tortured and hazardous, with long periods of storage, most small arms ammunition is packed in watertight metal boxes of convenient size for carrying by the soldier. Prior to WWII, ammunition was carried in the field in wooden boxes. These were neither dust proof nor moisture proof. Ammunition shipments were usually packaged in airtight cans or in wooden crates with metal inserts. When they arrived at the battle area they were removed and transferred to wooden boxes. This was inconvenient and there was a need for containers that could be more easily handled, provided better protection for the  ammunition and be immediately ready for use. Early pre war metal boxes like the M17 Ammo Box had no rubber seal. Later metal ammunition boxes developed for  WWII were dust and moisture proof. By the early 1950's, new models of ammunition boxes were developed to replace all of the types used during WWII. The older type boxes had several flaws. The post war models would be simple in design and more rugged. The lids were flat and no longer captured water and dirt. Spot welding replaced rivets. To make them easier to stack, they had flat sides and a shallow rectangular slot in the bottom to accept the handle of another box. The basic design of many post war ammunition boxes has been unchanged for well over half a century.

The .30 Cal M19 Ammo Box was introduced in 1946, replacing the M1 and M1A1 ammunition boxes. The M19 Ammo Box was developed to deliver belts of 250 .30-06 cartridges for the .30 Cal. Browning machine gun.  It was manufactured for only a few years. The M19A1 Ammo Box  replaced the M19 and has been produced in large quantities since around 1954. The M19A1 Ammo Box started out as a .30 caliber box but after 1957 it was also adapted for use with 7.62 mm NATO ammunition. In recent years the M19A1 Ammo Box has been used almost exclusively for 7.62 mm NATO ammunition. The M19A1 has a removable lid with a rubber gasket and has a larger lid latch. It has two small dimples on either side skirt at the opener end of the lid to hold the lid partly open. This allows the ammunition to be ready for use in a machine gun. The side skirt keeps out rain and dust. It carries ammunition in cartons, bandoleers, link belts and ammunition in bulk among other combinations. There are a few variations to be found on the M19A1 Ammo Boxes and the markings may vary, however, most makers placed the welded seam of the box on the opener end and embossed their initials, model number and two digit date of manufacture on the hinge end. The most common maker of small arms ammunition boxes in recent years has been S.C.F. Markings are placed on ammo boxes to describe the  ammunition caliber, quantity, type of packaging, manufacture date or lot number, packaged date, and manufacturer/arsenal. The original markings could be painted out and new markings applied when the box is refilled.  With the development of battle packs, which are carried in larger boxes, the use of the M19A1 Ammo Box for machine gun ammunition has diminished somewhat but they are still being made and used. It measures 3-13/16 " x 7-1/4" x 11".

The boxes sized for .30 Cal and .50 Cal ammunition are the most common, but there are actually a large number of sizes and shapes of ammo boxes to accommodate the vast variety of military cartridges and munitions. Some boxes are special purpose containers made for one item exclusively, such as an artillery shell. Others are more general purpose and can be packed with inner cartons, bandoleers, linked belts, dividers, or loose cartridges of many types or calibers.

Ammo Boxes are common place on the battlefield, especially in the vicinity of machine guns. As surplus, and because of their durable construction,  they have found their way by the millions into many garages and basements as general storage devices (tool boxes, tackle boxes, keepsake containers, etc.). More importantly, however, they make excellent Geocaches! "Ammo Box" hides are one of the most, if not the most, preferred hides for geocachers. The container is almost certainly going to be intact and dry and is large enough for most trade items and trackables.
 

IMPORTANT OPENING INSTRUCTIONS!
 
1. The cache is locked with a FOUR digit combination lock. To open the lock: align the correct numbers then push IN on the lock before pulling OUT on the lock. You will find the information needed to unlock the cache on the cache itself. This requirement is why I made it a difficulty 2 instead of a 1.

2. Push in on the top of the lid latch and swing it out to disengage it. Swing it up and flip it over and then rest it on the top of the lid. Be careful that the wind does not blow it down.

3. I have placed hydraulic struts under the lid to help lift the lid and support the lid when open. It now takes very little effort to raise the lid! Sometimes the lid wants to get stuck after sitting for a while. You may have to "bump" the underside of the lid while holding the latch open to "break the seal". Only lift the lid at the front, just to the left or right of center. PLEASE DO NOT LIFT ON THE SIDES OR PUSH UP ON THE SIDE SKIRTS and DO NOT USE THE LID LATCH TO LIFT THE LID!!

4. There is a support rod attached to the underside of the lid. It is held up out of the way by a magnet. Pull it down and rest it on the yellow painted square. Please replace before closing the lid.

5. The lock latch can be difficult to relocate at times. A slight nudge of the lid to the left and firm pressure will usually allow the latch to fully seat.


 
DISCLAIMER
 
I cannot foresee the physical abilities and/or physical limitations of each and every individual who attempts to find and open this cache. As a result, I cannot be held responsible for any injuries sustained by an individual who attempts to open the cache container. If you feel uncomfortable in your physical abilities to open the cache then DO NOT ATTEMPT TO OPEN IT!

I will still allow those who do not feel they can safely open the cache credit for finding it if they email me with the answers to the following questions:

1. What is the lock combination?

2. What is the serial number of the cache container? This is the last line painted on the outside of the container.
 

I hope you enjoy this cache as much as I did creating it! Happy Cacheing!
 

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