Beach Hazard EarthCache
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Matagorda is an exposed beach break that has fairly consistent surf. It is not only uncrowded, but one of our favorite local beaches ---but, we always swim with caution. One of the deadliest beach hazards are rip currents. On average, 100 people in the U.S. are killed each year from rip currents. There are many different types of rip currents and they form in several ways. In the book, "Marine Geology: Exploring the New Frontiers of the Ocean," it states that "steady onshore winds can cause rip currents. Because a wave is rarely of uniform height, water piles up near the shore where incoming waves are the tallest. Water sliding down the sides of the wave creates flows that move parallel to the shore. When the flows meet, water is diverted seaward in a narrow channel, creating a rip current that appears as a flow of choppy or dirty water. The strong currents can push out to sea unwary swimmers, who must swim parallel to the beach until out of the current and then swim back to shore." Rip currents can also occur at sandbar breaks, where water is funneled out to sea. These channels in sand bars lie just off the beach. When water returns to the ocean, it follows the path of least resistance, which is typically through these channels. Rip currents often appear next to structures such as piers, jetties and groins. The key ingredient in all rip currents is breaking waves. Rip currents are not always easy to identify, but signs include a break in the pattern of incoming waves; a channel of churning, choppy water; an area with a noticeably different water color; and a line of foam, seaweed or debris moving steadily seaward. For those who understand the dynamics of rip currents it does no good to try and swim against it. Rips are fast moving currents of water that can pull even the strongest swimmer away from the shore. Stay calm. Conserve energy. Many websites advise swimming parallel to the beach until out of the current and then swim back to shore. To log this Earthcache, answer these questions and send me an email: 1. Name 2 ways to identify rip currents. 2. What structure did you see at this beach that may be a major rip current hazard? (Photos are appreciated.) 3. What advice would you give someone if they are caught in a rip current?
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