I have dithered for ages about what to do for my virtual reward. I wanted to do something based around the history of Elgin but I soon realised that it was too big a topic to do justice to. With time running out to make a decision, I returned to a request that Geoki had made when I first told her about this virtual reward. She suggested that I do a virtual based on the Wolf of Badenoch …..
The above co-ordinates take you to an information board with a view David Annand’s bronze sculpture of the Wolf of Badenoch. The Wolf of Badenoch rampaged through Moray in May and June of 1390, pillaging and burning religious buildings, and allegedly murdering innocent individuals as he went. His figure here stands beneath a gothic arch which represents Elgin Cathedral, his most infamous act of destruction.
Some locals have wondered why a sculpture of such a notoriously violent man has been erected here but the true motivation for the Wolf of Badenoch’s destruction may be different from that recorded in most history books – and certainly Geoki would agree with this. She is of the opinion that the Wolf of Badenoch’s reputation is unfair and undeserved. She believes that he raided and ransacked his way through Moray because he could not be with the woman he loved and he blamed the church for this. Now, Geoki has been a tad enthusiastic about bagging virtuals over the last year, so I decided to let my virtual be one dedicated to this man who she feels has been much maligned.
It is highly likely that the events of 1390 were the result of a number of factors which released the Wolf of Badenoch’s wrath but if we delved into all of them then this cache description would go on for pages. Instead, to support Geoki’s beliefs, let’s forget about the fights for territory and titles, and the machinations of family politics, and just focus on the role of the two main women in his life. And let’s call him Alexander, for if he really isn’t as bad as history makes out (and we must remember that the records were often written by monks so they may have been a bit biased given that it was their own buildings which were torched) then we should at least call him by his given name.
Alexander Stewart was a son of King Robert II. He was said to be his father’s favourite and was made Lord of Badenoch after his father ascended the throne in 1371, going on to extend his territory in the following years and dominating the lands of north-east Scotland. However, Alexander was eager for more land and titles and in 1382 he wed Euphemia, Countess of Ross. Through this marriage he gained control of the lands of Ross as well as joint ownership of other land belonging to Euphemia. His land-holdings were effectively doubled and he had unrivalled power in the north – holding territory from Lewis to Aberdeenshire and from the Pentland Firth to Perthshire.
The marriage was not a happy one. Alexander’s commitment to Euphemia was not helped by the years passing with no child appearing and he began to spend less and less time at home. But there was another reason why Alexander became estranged from Euphemia ……. he had a long-term mistress - Mairead Inghean Eachainn – who, according to Geoki, was his true love. Alexander eventually deserted Euphemia in the late 1380s and lived with Mairead at Lochindorb Castle. Alexander and Mairead had a large family with at least five sons, some of whom were old enough to have suggested that Alexander knew Mairead in the 1370s, when he first became active in Badenoch. Some sources also suggest that Alexander’s union with Mairead was a Gaelic secular marriage.
So, if Alexander was happily shacked up with Mairead at Lochindorb, what was the trigger for his rampage of destruction? In terms of his relationship with these two women this is where the stories differ. But before we explore this we should bring in another character at this point – the Bishop of Moray, Bishop Bur.
Bishop Bur had constantly clashed with Alexander since the 1370s – mainly in connection with the way in which Alexander ruled his territories. Alexander favoured the use of caterans – wild, unruly Highlanders who caused problems by putting pressure on both land owners and tenants, and the church was not exempt from their forcefulness.
When it comes to the Wolf’s women, whichever tale is true, Bishop Bur is involved in both. The first story suggests that Alexander was angry because Bishop Bur refused to annul his marriage. However, most accounts paint a different picture, one where Alexander did not want his marriage to end – not because he loved Euphemia, but because he loved her lands.
In 1389 Euphemia complained to Bishop Bur, stating that her marriage was a sham because Alexander had abandoned her to openly live with Mairead. Bishop Bur is said to have enjoyed reprimanding Alexander, and ordered him to return to his wife. Alexander pretended to agree to this accept this order – knowing that if he didn’t he faced the prospect of losing his claims on the vast expanse of lands that belonged to Euphemia. Alexander failed to repair his marriage though and Euphemia was encouraged by Bishop Bur to divorce Alexander.
Either way – Alexander wanting an annulment or not wanting an annulment - Bishop Bur’s involvement in Alexander’s marital affairs made him, and all he stood for, a target for Alexander’s fury and it led to Alexander seeking revenge.
With his anger unleashed, in May 1390, Alexander gathered a force of his caterans and rode out from Lochindorb, storming through Moray and targeting church properties over a two month reign of terror. Forres was destroyed and Pluscarden Abbey plundered. They arrived in Elgin in June and it was the violent burning of Elgin Cathedral, Moray’s central church, that sealed Alexander’s reputation as the Wolf of Badenoch.
Elgin Cathedral was the second biggest church building in Scotland at that time and was beloved by Bishop Bur. It was known as the Lantern of the North. When Alexander set it on fire, he allegedly said “I have lit the lantern.”
The cathedral was pretty much razed to the ground, as were the manses of the canons and chaplains who resided nearby. Much of the town was also burned, including the monastery at Greyfriars, the parish church of St Giles and the hospital of Maison Dieu.
It was immediately clear that Alexander had gone too far. Church and state joined together to oppose him. Alexander was prosecuted and punished. He lost large sections of his territories and his royal appointments were removed – however he was absolved of his crimes after dressing in sack cloth and pleading forgiveness at his brother’s feet during a council held in Perth. He headed back to Badenoch but did not involve himself directly in Scottish politics again.
In 1392 Euphemia’s appeal to Pope Clement VII was successful and the marriage was annulled, with the Pope stating that the marriage had been "the cause of wars, plundering, arson, murders, and many other damages and scandals". As a result of the divorce, Euphemia’s estates were returned to her so, as he had feared, Alexander lost all claims to those lands.
Presumably Alexander lived out his days with Mairead. It would be nice to think so after all that.
If you want to see him for yourself – or at least his resting place – his tomb lies in Dunkeld Cathedral. According to legend, he died at Ruthven Castle after losing a chess game with the devil.
_________________________________________________________________________________________________________
So now let’s follow Alexander’s footsteps (or should that be horse’s hooves?) through Elgin and on to the cathedral where his moniker - the Wolf of Badenoch – was cemented. You will need to answer questions here, on the plainstones in the centre of town and at the cathedral in order to claim this virtual.
Questions
Sculpture (page co-ordinates)
- On the information board at the page co-ordinates there is a sentence mentioning the Wolf of Badenoch in the bottom left hand corner. How many words in this sentence?
Plainstones (N 57° 38.914 W 003° 18.986)
The Wolf of Badenoch and his caterans rode through the plainstones here in 1390 and set fire to St Giles Parish church.
- Look at the north side of the pyramidal structure topped with a crown. Find The Wolf of Badenoch holding his flaming torch aloft. What is the building underneath him?
Now move to N 57° 38.920 W 3° 18.965
- Read the section on the top right of the information board. What is the word before “sculpture”?
Cathedral (N 57° 39.056 W 3° 18.396)
Here we are at what remains of the “Lantern of the North”. It was rebuilt after Alexander destroyed it but then started to fall into ruin and disrepair within a couple of centuries. Take some time to think about what this area might have looked like over 600 years ago and head over to your final location at N 57° 39.056 W 3° 18.396
- Look at the drawing of the manse. The Wolf of Badenoch burnt down eighteen of these. How many white-robed children can be seen in the main room?
Please message or email me with your answers to the four questions.
No photos are required to claim this cache but if you fancy doing one with a “Wolf of Badenoch” face that would be entertaining to see!
If you haven’t done it already, don’t forget to do this cache when you are here: Scottish Cathedral Micro - Elgin Cathedral Traditional Geocache GC390W5
Virtual Rewards 3.0 - 2022-2023
This Virtual Cache is part of a limited release of Virtuals created between March 1, 2022 and March 1, 2023. Only 4,000 cache owners were given the opportunity to hide a Virtual Cache. Learn more about Virtual Rewards 3.0 on the Geocaching Blog.