This small lock and lock container is located at the Door Jamb East Ridge Viewpoint, a fantastic vista that offers views down the entire Bow Valley. This cache was placed as part of the development of the Side Door rock climbing route up the East Ridge of Door Jamb Mountain. Although this cache does not necessarily require any mandatory rock climbing to reach, it will require scrambling and routefinding. And for those with the skills and equipment necessary to safely continue further up the ridge, I highly recommend the full Side Door route to the summit of Door Jamb Mountain. Enjoy the views from this awesome location!
Views from the Door Jamb East Ridge Viewpoint:
The Route
The Side Door (Door Jamb East Ridge) Route:
The Side Door is a brand new route that climbs the East Ridge of Door Jamb Mountain, with the full route ascending from the top of the Kid Goat climbing crag all the way to the summit of Door Jamb. It's a fully bolted alpine-esque adventure route featuring easy rock climbing up to YDS 5.4, and requiring only a rack of quickdraws for protection. In total, there are 3 pitches of climbing:
Pitch 1: The Hinge Step - 5.3, 3 bolts, 15 metres
Pitch 2: The Side Door P1 - 5.3, 7 bolts, 30 metres
Pitch 3: The Side Door P2 - 5.4, 8 bolts, 30 metres
The majority of the route is easy scrambling (hiking), apart from the three climbing pitches listed above and two very short scrambling sections. The two scrambling steps (shown in the photo topo above) are easily scrambled through weaknesses in the cliffbands (waypoints provided). The scrambling is class 3 (moderate) and short. Above the scramble steps, you hike up to an excellent viewpoint of the Bow Valley that I've called the Door Jamb East Ridge Viewpoint. From here, continue hiking up the ridge to reach The Hinge Step, which is the first pitch of actual climbing. Climb up easily past 2 bolts, turn right, clip one additional bolt, then pull through a slightly steeper move on great holds to a bolted anchor. Once above this short pitch, coil up the rope and continue hiking up to the Side Door pitches.
As you approach the large cliff band near the top of Door Jamb Mountain, angle up and left around some trees until you reach the base of the rock. Now traverse straight right along the rock above the trees to a small landing. On the right side of the rock face near the prow of the ridge you will find the bolts and the route above. You are now at The Side Door. It should be fairly obvious since there are lots of bolts. Pitch 1 of the Side Door is fun slab climbing up beside the prow of the ridge, with difficulties up to about 5.3. Pitch 2 offers an easy start followed by the crux of the route, which is a short but very well bolted 5.4 section up a steeper wall with great holds. Above, a short slabby section leads to the anchors. Note that the route is bolted for climbers who would be challenged by the 5.4 grade (it's well bolted).
At the top of the Side Door pitches, the difficulties are not quite over yet - head right and go around the tree for some easier scrambling, or head straight up above the anchor into the forest above (4th class scrambling, unprotected). You may want to keep the rope on and belay the second up this short scramble step. Once your feet are on solid ground in the forest, coil the rope and head up towards the top of the south ridge. You'll run across the trail leading to the summit, turn right and in a couple minutes you are at the summit of Door Jamb Mountain - congrats!
Recommended rack: 10 quickdraws, 60 m rope.
The Cache
As mentioned above, this cache does not require mandatory climbing to reach. However, it will require 3rd-4th class scrambling to reach, as well as a significant approach. Expect a bit of routefinding and a bit of bushwhacking, along with some loose scree in spots. Once you reach the viewpoint, you can continue up the ridge (climbing above) or turn around. Note that it's fairly common for parties to rappel the 4th class scramble step between Kid and Nanny Goat - but that's up to you. I've both rappelled and downclimbed it many times in the past. If your goal is just to scramble to this one non-climbing cache, I suppose you will probably scramble up there anyway, so you will know exactly what to expect on the way back down. Have fun and enjoy!
The Approach & Descent
Looking up the East Ridge of Door Jamb Mountain:
Park at the Kid Goat parking lot, on the south side of Hwy 1A across from the Francis Cooke landfill. Pick up a good trail heading north along on the east side of the landfill, which then turns west and heads along the north side of the landfill boundary. From here, you have two choices to get to the top of Kid Goat:
Option 1: Climb your favourite route up Kid Goat - Climb any of a number of routes that take you to the top of the Kid Goat crag. Such routes include Grey Waves, Keelhaul Wall or Twilight Zone. Note that the difficulty of these routes will be several climbing grades harder than the Side Door route.
Option 2: Scramble up the Kid Goat / Nanny Goat gully - As you approach Kid Goat, find a well travelled trail heading north that takes you to the gully separating Kid Goat and Nanny Goat. Scramble up a short but fairly easy 4th class section, then continue heading up the gully. Follow up the normal Kid Goat descent trail, which will take you to the top of Kid Goat.
Once you're on top of the Kid Goat crag, you're at the beginning of the East Ridge route - follow the route description above!
As for descent, I very highly recommend scrambling down the south ridge of Door Jamb Mountain. As the full route officially tops out at the summit of Door Jamb Mountain, it would be difficult to re-trace your steps back down to the top of the Side Door route. I don't recommend rappelling the route. Instead, scramble directly down Door Jamb via the standard route. There are tons of braided trails and options for getting down, but the route is about 3rd class (moderate scrambling). Stick close to the ridge - there are cliffs on both the left and right if you stray too far. Eventually you will end up all the way back down at the highway. Alternatively, you can continue your adventure to Loder Peak, bag another summit and descend down a nice drainage to Jura Creek. Turn left at the creek and follow an easy creekbed back to the Jura Creek day use area.
Views down the Bow Valley:
