| NO-ONE pays much attention to the crusty old shell of an
ancient schooner sitting in its dark shed in an old mill town in
the Pacific Northwest. But when people learn that Equator
once carried Robert Louis Stevenson, author of the classic
Treasure Island, and his family to the South Seas, heads
turn.
Visiting Equator at her home at the 10th Street boat
launch in Everett, Washington, is like stopping to chat to a lonely
old woman. She sits in her shed as if at her tenement window hoping
that someone passing by will stop and blether for a while from the
street. She's anxious to tell stories of her heyday, about the
exotic islands she sailed to and most of all the famous writer and
poet she kept at sea for many months.
Behind the dreamy bravado lies a sad looking boat some would
call a wreck. Her beauty these days lies deep in her story. Her
spirit lives on but she has lost her looks. Subtract point zero one
one from latitude.
The story of Equator begins in Benicia, California, in
1888, when she was built by Matthew Turner. Said to have been one
of the greatest shipbuilders of his time, Turner assembled the boat
to be a South Sea trader and mail boat.
Stevenson arrived in the Hawaiian Islands in 1888 where he and
his family jumped ship. The following June they left for the
Gilbert Islands – a vast 2,400 miles away - aboard
Equator. (Ironically, the earth's equator runs through the
former British island chain.) Stevenson referred to the boat as a
"pygmy schooner" since she was a little more than 20 meters (66
feet) long and about 72 tons.
One can only speculate what power the schooner might have had to
keep Stevenson sailing the Pacific for four months and indeed
inspire him in some of his writings.
In a letter to his friend Sidney Colvin from aboard
Equator, Stevenson said:
"My Dear Colvin - We are just nearing the end of our long
cruise. Rain, calms, squalls, bang - there's the foretopmast gone;
rain, calm, squalls, away with the staysail; more rain, more calm,
more squalls; a prodigious heavy sea all the time, and the
Equator staggering and hovering like a swallow in a storm;
and the cabin, a great square, crowded with wet human beings, and
the rain avalanching on the deck, and the leaks dripping
everywhere: Fanny, in the midst of fifteen males, bearing up
wonderfully."
From the Gilbert Islands, a few months later, the schooner took
the family to Samoa where Stevenson hoped to find a climate that
would improve his weakening health.
Too sick to brave the cold climate of Scotland, Stevenson knew
that he would never see his beloved homeland again. He died in 1894
at age 44 in Samoa.
What happened to Equator during this time is murky. The
craft started out as a schooner but eventually became a
blackbirder, a kind of slave ship, in the South Seas, says Dick
Eitel, one of the men who resurrected her.
The boat later worked up and down America's Pacific coast
transporting lumber. Equator also spent some years as a
tug before being dismantled. The hull was placed in breakwater in
Everett during the 1950s.
The Equator deserved a place in the world of historic
treasures, so she was put on the state and national registers of
historic places. Which was accomplished by 1973. Please add point
three one six to the longitude.
New condominiums that will soon be built in the area do not
threaten the dark and dank rotting boards of this sad old lady. If
she could tell her stories they would be something to share with
future generations.
Stevenson is said to haunt Equator. Whether he does or not might
only be answered by the few feral cats, among them Orange and
Rambo, who live aboard the old schooner, roaming the hull and
keeping rats and mice at bay.
The container is a small cache but not quite as big as a decon
container. Please bring something to write with and return the
cache carefully so the cachers behind you will enjoy this one as
much as you did. It doesn't hurt to practice CITO also. |
 |
| The two-masted pygmy trading schooner Equator inspired
passenger Robert Louis Stevenson in 1889 to write one of his most
famous stories, “The Wreckers,” in his book, “Tales of
the South Seas.” |
 |
The schooner Equator with the Robert Louis Stevenson
party (second left), on board at Honolulu.
Picture: © The City of Edinburgh Council |
 |
The dilapidated Equator sits in dry dock in a US port near
Seattle, circa 1982.
Picture: Courtesy Everett Public
Library | |