Horatio Nelson's first view of Great Yarmouth was as a
midshipman from the ketch Carcass on its return from
Svalbard in September 1773. He returned as the Captain of the 28
gun frigate Albemale in the autumn and winter of 1781 to
1782 on convoy escort duty in the North Sea. His most famous visit
however was his triumphant return as the victor of the Nile in 1800
when thousands gathered to greet him in Church Plain. Georgian
Yarmouth was very different from today's town. The first
developments outside the town walls was the Naval Hospital &
racecourse on the South Denes and a bathhouse (on the site of The
Flamingo) & boarding houses for society visitors to the north.
Before the arrival of the railways Great Yarmouth was a resort for
the better sort of person who came by sea from London.
There is ample pay & display parking close to the market
place although parking by the Tide & Time museum (2005
Gulbenkian prize short list) is free, a nice cafe and is well
placed to complete your journey. The instructions below assume that
you have parked by the Tide & Time museum.
1 -
Nelson's
Monument - the process to build a Norfolk memorial to
Nelson started on 30 November 1805 but is was a further 12 years
before building began and two more before it was opened. A
commanding seamark, for its first century it stood surrounded by
the open sward of Yarmouth racecourse. On the day of the Norfolk
Naval Pillar's opening the building surveyor Thomas Sutton died of
a heart attack after climbing the 217 steps to the viewing gallery.
Designed by the same architect as Dublin's Nelson's Column of
1809-1965, it is 44 metres high and had it not been for the
additional cost of the foundations it would only have been 3m
shorter than the late comer in Trafalgar Square. It is worth noting
that although the monument faces due west (270º) Britannia looks
westnorthwest (292º 30') which is close to, but not the exact
azimuth (300º 30') to Burnham Thorpe (NC11 The Nelson) as
legend would have it. Conspiracy theorists may note that the figure
of Britannia mingles the iconography of that personification of
Britain (standing on a globe, Neptune's trident, centurion's
helmet) with the Masonic grace Hope (no Grecian shield or lion,
trident in left hand, right rather than left breast exposed,
sprouting branch in right hand). However one only has to refer to
the current 50p piece to see that we still do not get in right,
unless of course ....
A = the number of scuttles between Vanguard and Abu
Kir.
Walk east to the beach then north along the beach front, taking
time to admire the wooden roller coaster which was built in Hamburg
in 1929 and at one (terrestrial) mile long is the sixth longest
wooden coaster in the world. The Georgian brick buildings set back
from Marine Parade were built as the Royal Naval Hospital in 1809.
The regency style building opposite the Winter Gardens is the Royal
Assembly Rooms, formerly the officers mess for the Artillery
Militia, but since 1919 the Masonic Temple and home of the
mysterious Nelsonian marble brick (NC4 A Nelson)
2 - Jetty - 52º 36.(16xA)' North, 001º 44.3(AxA)' East -
the jetty was originally built to allow boats from the ships at
anchor in Yarmouth Roads easy access to the shore. Nelson landed
here from the brig Kite in July 1801 on his return from
Copenhagen and the Baltic. Turn with your back to the German Ocean
and face west. The Barking Smack and Marine are the
two oldest sea front buildings you see and are in their fourth
century providing for the needs of mariners. It is worth your while
noting the obelisk directly in line with the pier which is a
memorial to the Far East POWs of WWII. Looking only between the
windmill and the tower:
B = how many clock faces can you see from
here?
Despite the waiting crowds, and the civic reception in the
Market Place, Nelson headed north from here to the original Naval
Hospital. Follow him northward along the promenade and then turn
west along Sandown Road, passing the Youth Hostel on your way. When
you enter the conservation area take the main path southward,
noting the WWII strafing damage to the largest granite memorial as
you pass.
3 - James Guthrie - 52º 36.6((9xA)+1)' North, 001º
43.7(2xBxBxB)' East - This area was formerly the Sailors' Burial
Ground for the naval barracks and hospital which stood on the site
now occupied by the supermarket:
C = the second part of the year in which the Royal
Naval Gunner died.
D = the month in which he died.
Unfortunately most of the Napoleonic graves where not given
stone markers and the area was reused for civil interments when
absorbed into the St Nicholas churchyard in the 1830s. There are
more recent Victorian naval graves in the cemetery extension and
the graves of Thomas Sutton and David Bartleman (killed by the
notorious English pirate Fall in 1781, when Nelson's frigate the
Albemale was on patrol duty). St Nicholas is the largest
parish church in Britain and in November 1800 Nelson attended a
thanksgiving service here for his safe return to England.
4 - Nelson Hotel - 52º 36.6(C+(D/2)' North, 001º 43.5BA'
East - you are standing in what was Brewers Plain with the former
site of E Lacon & Co's Falcon Brewery to your west. Lacon was
famous for its Yarmouth Pale Ale which was shipped as far as India
and Sri Lanka, where Nelson may have tasted some on his two year
voyage as a midshipman on HMS Seahorse. To your south is all
that remains of Yarmouth's premier coaching inn, partially
destroyed by German bombing in 1942. Mrs Suckling the landlady
wanted to rename it the Nelson Arms in honour of his visit ,but
Nelson thought this "absurd as I have but one"! In 1836 it returned
to the name it has grappled with since 1691:
E = the month of Nelson's stay which is comemorated
here.
5 - Row 74 - 52º 36.((Ax50)+2)' North, 001º 43.6(13xD)'
East - for most of its 1000 year history Yarmouth had only 3
streets north/south and over 130 narrow east/west lanes called
Rows. There were even special one wheeled carts to allow merchants
to bring their goods through the Rows from the river quay. This row
was rebuilt as an arcade in 1926 but the right hand shop was the
mayor's residence and Nelson and the Hamiltons were entertained
here by Mayor Samuel Baker:
F = number of hoops on the lefthand pediment.
G = number of loops on the righthand pediment.
Walk down the row until you reach Trafalgar House then turn
north towards Hall Quay.
6 - The Nelson Room - 52º 36.B9D' North, 001º 43.DF0'
East - the building in front of you is an impostor as it is really
the Cromwell Temperance Hotel and in Nelson's time was a
merchant's house (demonstrating the value of the Norfolk woollen
trade which accounted for on seventh of England's total GDP in
Tudor times. The Star Hotel stood on the south side of Ben Dowson's
Row and closed in 1930 to make way for a telephone exchange.
H = the GPO built this building in 193H
I = the units numeral of the intervening row
Cross onto the quay side and make your way to the final cache.
On your way you can admire the weather vane on the council offices
and some of the finest merchant houses still standing in England
including that now occupied by the
Norfolk Nelson
Museum at 26 South Quay. In the summer season there is
often a historic vessel on the South Quay, often the steam drifter
Lydia Eva but the Grand Turk, Bounty and
Mayflower have all visited in recent years. Across the
river, in what to 1974 was Suffolk, you can see Richards Shipyard
in Southtown near where Nelson arrived on in 1800 from Cuxhaven and
further south Gorleston where the fleet took on victuals and
freshwater (see Admiral Duncan's Pump).